RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK West Sunset: A culinary masterpiece hidden in Suwon's shadows
The exterior of West Sunset in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province, Oct. 5 / Courtesy of Eddie Tam
SUWON, Gyeonggi Province — The sun was setting as I entered the aptly named West Sunset restaurant, a cozy little spot tucked away in a nondescript building. Upon entering, I was greeted by the proud — yet busy — owner, who takes on the roles of maître d’, waiter and chef. The air was filled with the delicious smells of a fusion of French and Italian cuisine. With seating for only a dozen lucky patrons, the proprietor was able to give each guest the full attention they deserved. While slowly taking in the exquisite-looking dishes, it was immediately apparent that the owner was indeed an artist: his plates were the canvas, while the food was an expression of his passion and imagination. And his attention to detail was meticulous.
In a world where inflation and the rising cost of goods affect everyone, it is rare to see such value in the pricing of his food, with no dishes over 15,000 won. Consequently, our party of four decided to order almost the entire menu. We started with the appetizer — lemon jelly & jolene tomato (12,000 won), a cold dish consisting of tomato, lemon jelly, stracciatella, basil oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano. It was an excellent start to the meal, as the light, bold-flavored appetizer prepared us for the heavier dishes to come.
Lemon jelly & jolene tomato appetizer at West Sunset in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province, Oct. 5 / Courtesy of Eddie Tam
Once we finished the appetizer, the main dishes began to arrive. Most notable were the mushroom purée with duck breast in a gastrique sauce (9,500 won), the chicken confit with chimichurri sauce and ricotta cheese (10,000 won) and the braised beef with mashed potatoes (10,000 won). The chef seemed to outdo himself with each plate, each being better than the last. It was very difficult to single out one standout dish, but I particularly enjoyed the braised beef. You could tell that the beef had been braised for many hours, as it was tender to the fork. The bed of mashed potatoes, buttery and soft, was crafted with care. The chef added an extra touch by topping it with bread crumbs, sprigs of thyme and torching the top to give it a little more texture and crunch.
Braised beef with mashed potatoes at West Sunset in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province, Oct. 5 / Courtesy of Eddie Tam
The meal was so good that we couldn’t leave without trying their pasta dishes. We ordered the garlic oil spaghetti (13,000 won) and the white ragu pasta (15,000 won). The garlic oil spaghetti was fine, but I would recommend the white ragu pasta, as the combination of beef, pork, bacon and truffle oil is a unique dish, memorable to the palate. Finally, we finished the meal with a sweet ending, tasting the homemade cheesecake. It was not overly sweet and served as a good finale to one of the best meals I have had in Suwon.
If you end up going to this gem, you will find that, just like the food, the wine menu is priced very reasonably. They have a wine of the month which can be bought by the glass (6,000 won) or the bottle (29,000 won). We ordered a bottle of white wine with notes of gooseberry, green apple and citrus, which nicely complemented the meal. Overall, I can’t say enough good things about this place. Discovering quality cuisine at such affordable prices in an unassuming establishment like this is truly remarkable. May this exceptional eatery continue to thrive and delight its patrons for years to come.
West Sunset in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province, Oct. 5 / Courtesy of Eddie Tam
West Sunset, located near the southern gate of Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, welcomes guests from Tuesday to Saturday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. (last order at 10 p.m.). Reservations are essential. Follow @west.sunset_diner on Instagram for more information.
Eddie Tam is an assistant professor in Suwon and runs the Facebook foodie groups Hidden Gems Korea and Hidden Gems Suwon, Korea.