RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Taejon Burger offers Expo nostalgia and juicy burgers
The food at Taejon Burger / Courtesy of Taejon Burger
By John A. Riley
Back in 1993, Daejeon (then known as Taejon) hosted Expo ’93, an event that has left a lasting mark on the city: part of the site is now used for filming Korean dramas, such as the 2021 blockbuster Netflix hit "Squid Game." Daejeon still uses Kumdori, the alien mascot of the Expo, as its official emblem. Another smaller but still crucial part of the Expo's legacy is Taejon Burger, which takes Expo nostalgia as its concept.
Taejon Burger is nestled in Soje-dong, a refurbished neighborhood that used to house the city's railway employees, and is therefore just a stone's throw from Daejeon Station. The area has now been regenerated, with many of its traditional houses transformed into international and fusion restaurants.
Yoo Jun-sang, a successful real estate agent of 13 years, wanted to be part of Soje-dong's regeneration, and his passion for gourmet burgers was the first thing that came to mind. Since many of these businesses took Soje-dong itself as their theme, Yoo wanted a theme that encompasses Daejeon and its modern history. He had visited the Expo back when he was in elementary school and had nostalgic memories of the event.
Inside the stylish white building, designed by the famed architect Im Hyeong-nam and built four years ago, the mouthwatering smell of cooking beef instantly assails your nostrils. The place is decorated with memorabilia from the Expo. A TV from the ’90s plays a Kumdori cartoon on a loop. This show was made especially for the Expo and broadcast internationally as "Twinkle, The Dream Being." I learned this from Taejon Burger and binged all 26 episodes on YouTube. Taejon Burger is an ideal destination for those who see pop culture rabbit holes as the perfect accompaniment to their meals.
Souvenirs from Expo '93 including Kumdori characters and a miniature of Hanbit Tower are on display at Taejon Burger. Courtesy of Taejon Burger
Other nostalgic items include a tape deck and a (working) Apple computer from the ’90s, plus memorabilia from the Expo: Kumdori/Twinkle toys, baseball caps, photos, posters and even postage stamps and day passes from the event. Yoo's personal favorite item is a scale model of Dajeon's iconic Hanbit Tower, something he couldn't afford 31 years ago but has since been able to add to his collection. Though the amassed memorabilia is authentic, it seems as though the restaurant is less popular with clientele old enough to have visited the Expo, instead attracting a younger crowd of Korean gourmands.
The decor gives Taejon Burger a unique place in the city's culinary culture, ensuring that the place doubles as a restaurant and a mini-museum of local history. But what of the food?
Taejon Burger's burgers are better than any I've had in Seoul or Busan. They are fried in butter, giving them an incredible juiciness. The juice runs forth, and they can be messy — but deeply satisfying — to eat. They are served in a sesame seed bun, which adds a little extra crunch to your bite and a slightly bitter, tahini-like undertaste to an already full-flavored mouthful.
The signature burger is served with pineapple, crispy onion, thick roasted oyster mushroom and a combination of sauces including teriyaki and just a hint of wasabi. Though I'm generally conservative when it comes to topping burgers with extra ingredients, here, the pineapple balances the meatiness and spice. The onion and mushroom, together with the rest of the ingredients, create a rhapsody of texture and taste. It's a rich enough burger that you don't need the cheese fries — plain fries are enough.
Personally, I prefer the double patty burger, which is perhaps more geared to Western tastes: it's served with bacon, cheddar cheese and tart, crunchy dill pickle. Yoo's own pick is the Expo burger, a spicier item that is topped with jalapenos and shrimp. Though these burgers aren't cheap, they are delicious, made with fresh ingredients and full of unique details. Those on a budget are advised to choose their standard cheeseburger or hot chicken burger, both of which are under 10,000 won. Though I have yet to sample the cheeseburger, I can confirm that the sriracha-infused mayonnaise on the chicken burger will set your tastebuds alight.
In addition to selling the usual array of soft drinks, Taejon Burger partners with Daejeon's Ranch Brewery to offer local craft beer. Sometimes their much-sought-after Morning Calm IPA is available, which pairs excellently with the double patty burger. Recently they have been stocking 'From D' Daedeok lager, a lighter brew made especially for a beer festival held earlier this year.
Taejon Burger / Courtesy of Taejon Burger
Regular customers may find themselves rewarded with the occasional complimentary pair of mozzarella sticks as "service." This is because Taejon Burger isn't just a fast food joint — it's a local institution. Though there are other burger restaurants in town — and other restaurants in Soje-dong — Taejon Burger is the only one with legendary status.
The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, but the rest of the week it is open from 11 a.m. to 8:50 p.m. On weekdays, when office workers head there for lunch, the breaktime is from 3 p.m. to 4:30 p.m., while on weekends, when customers flock to Soje-dong with its many Instagrammable riverside cafes and other international restaurants, Taejon Burger takes a break from 3:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Follow @taejonburger on Instagram for more information.
John A. Riley is a writer and educator based in Daejeon. He has written for The Asian Review of Books, Popmatters, Screen and numerous other publications.