TEMPLE ADVENTURES Don't overlook Haein Temple's hermitages
Baengryeon Hermitage / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
Rather obviously, the highlight of any temple visit is the main temple and its buildings. But hidden within this rather obvious statement are the countless amount of hermitages that surround these beautiful temples. This is especially true of larger temples like Tongdo Temple, Beomeo Temple and Haein Temple.
Haein Temple, which is located in Hapcheon, South Gyeongsang Province, is famous for housing the printing woodblocks of the Tripitaka Koreana. The woodblocks that comprise the Tripitaka Koreana are the oldest and most comprehensive intact collection of Buddhists texts.
The first set of woodblocks were made in 1087, but they were later destroyed by the invading Mongols in 1232. To help inspire divine assistance in the defense of the nation, King Gojong of Goryeo (r. 1213-59) ordered that the set be remade. Over a 12-year period starting in 1237, the second set of the Tripitaka Koreana was completed. And in 1398, the set was moved to its current home at Haein Temple, where it was stored in the Janggyeong-panjeon. In total, there are 81,258 wooden printing blocks that are without a single error.
A look inside the Janggyeong-panjeon at the Tripitaka Koreana at Haein Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
The Janggyeong-panjeon is located to the rear of the temple grounds at Haein Temple. And because of the Tripitaka Koreana, Haein Temple is part of the Three Jewels Temples alongside Tongdo Temple and Songgwang Temple. While Tongdo Temple represents the Buddha, and Songgwang Temple represents the sangha (Buddhist community), Haein Temple represents the dharma (Buddhist teachings) for rather obvious reasons.
Not only is Haein Temple famous for the Tripitaka Koreana, it’s also famous for its location in Gayasan National Park, the beautiful buildings at the temple, as well as the prominent monks that once called Haein Temple home.
Another interesting aspect to Haein Temple that’s often overlooked by visitors is the numerous hermitages that surround the famous temple. In total, there are a dozen of these hermitages that have differing architecture, artwork and histories. While some hermitages have portions of their grounds off-limits to visitors, the vast majority here are completely open to the general public. Great examples of these hermitage at Haein Temple — and for differing reasons — are Hongje Hermitage, Baengryeon Hermitage and Yaksu Hermitage.
Hongje Hermitage was built in 1608 for the warrior monk Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610). The hermitage was built as a sign of appreciation for all of Samyeong-daesa’s efforts during the 1592-98 Imjin War by King Seonje of Joseon (r. 1567-1608). The name of the hermitage comes from the posthumous title of Jatong Hongje-jonja bestowed upon Samyeong-daesa, who spent the remainder of his days there. This title was given by King Gwanghaegun of Joseon (r. 1608-23). The hermitage is also home to a stupa that houses the earthly remains of Samyeong-daesa. In addition to all of this history, Hongje Hermitage is also home to some pretty unique artwork, like the Bodhisattva-Sanshin (Mountain Spirit). This statue and painting of Sanshin is a unique synthesis and melding of Korean Buddhism with Korean shamanism.
The Bodhisattva-Sanshin at Hongje Hermitage / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
Another beautiful hermitage on the Haein Temple grounds is Baengryeon Hermitage. It’s unknown as to when the hermitage was first built, and it’s also unknown as to who built it, but it is known that the hermitage was reconstructed in 1605 by the monk Soam, who was a disciple of Seosan-daesa (1520-1604). Legend has it that during the Imjin War, Soam protected Haein Temple through his reputation alone. The Japanese wanted to invade, and were even occupying the neighbouring hillside at Haein Temple, but they didn't dare invade the temple. Sounds a little far-fetched, but those are legends for you.
More recently, the hermitage has become famous for being the home hermitage to the monk Seongcheol (1912-93). Not only was Seongcheol the Supreme Patriarch of the Jogye Order (the largest Buddhist order in Korea), but he was also believed to be a living Buddha in Korea because of his extremely austere lifestyle. Since his passing, and over the past couple of years, the hermitage has undergone extensive renovations, rebuilds and reconstruction.
One other hermitage that visitors should explore at Haein Temple is Yaksu Hermitage. The hermitage was first founded in 1904, and later rebuilt in 1927. The hermitage is home to nuns, and they are some of the nicest nuns that you’ll find in Korea, especially the abbess.
After looking around the main hall and the shaman shrine hall, I was welcomed to the hermitage and invited into the meditation center at Yaksu Hermitage. At first, I thought she wanted me to meditate with her. Instead, she introduced me to a painting that was at least a couple centuries old. While blackened by age, you can clearly see that the beautiful painting was dedicated to the Bodhidharma and Dazu Huike (487-593). The painting illustrates the famed “Cutting Off His Arm,” where Dazu Huike cuts off his left arm to prove his resolve and devotion to the Bodhidharma and his teachings. Rather interestingly, and similar to the story about the beheading of Ichadon (501-527); whereas white blood pours forth from Ichadon’s neck, white blood pours forth from Dazu Huike’s left arm in this painting. Both acts, and the white blood that pours forth from their wounds, highlight the miraculous nature of their actions. I asked the abbess just how old the painting was. She couldn’t be any more specific than a couple centuries. Also, I asked her where it was originally located, and this was unknown as well. I was just happy that the abbess had been so inviting and willing to share such a priceless piece of Buddhist art with me.
The faded painting of the Bodhidharma and Dazu Huike at Yaksu Hermitage / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
So while Haein Temple is absolutely stunning for numerous reasons, and everyone in Korea should visit this temple at least once, Haein Temple is so much more than the main temple and its buildings. Don’t get me wrong, the temple is amazing. But the dozen hermitages surrounding it deserve a visit, as well. And they certainly aren’t limited to the three hermitages listed above. I enjoyed a nice lunch at Bohyeon Hermitage, as well as the amazing views at Huirangdae Hermitage. In fact, you could spend an entire day visiting all the hermitages at Haein Temple without actually visiting the main temple, and you would have a highly rewarding experience.
Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published three books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the website Dale's Korean Temple Adventures.