RAS Korea Militarized Nonsan also offers scenic tourist spots
A view of downtown “Seoul” as imagined by the set designers of “Mr. Sunshine” / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields
By Steven L. Shields
Nonsan is famous for two things: Strawberries and the ROK Army basic training center. Few would imagine that there is a pleasant day trip of scenic beauty and television drama fame to be had here. Nonsan region has a rich history from before the Three Kingdoms Era. An important battle during Silla times was fought in the area. Now Nonsan is part of the greater Daejeon metropolitan area and is easily accessible by train, bus or car.
I went to Nonsan in February, just as the strawberries (all grown in hothouses these days) were coming onto the market. Of course, I couldn't resist buying (and later eating) a box (shared with friends). The day was clear and bright, and the weather was cool but not cold. My trip began at the south end of the course I had chosen.
My first stop was at the Sunshine Studio, not far from the military training center and adjacent to a “Military Experience” hall. The courtyard of the hall displays weaponry from the ROK military. The hall is geared mainly to schoolchildren who come on field trips to introduce them to what it might be like to be in the armed forces. I passed up the opportunity and headed straight for Sunshine Studio.
Just one of the exciting pieces of hardware on display at the Military Experience Hall in Nonsan / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields
“Mr. Sunshine” is a well-known 2018 romantic drama set in Seoul during the beginnings of Japan's encroachment of the Korean Empire. Though some criticized the drama for “twisting history,” the show was never intended to be a documentary. “Mr. Sunshine” is a pure, well-written, well-played romance, with the backdrop of early 1900s Seoul.
One can catch a glimpse of what downtown Seoul may have been like 120 years ago. Of course, it is not bustling with the animals, merchants and crowds that would have been present then. The interiors of some of the hanok and thatched-roof houses are set up as if someone had lived there, while the interors of the major architentural pices, particularly the Glory Hotel and the Seoul Electric Company have displays of costumes worn by the stars of the drama. The studio at Nonsan retains the miniature Seoul City built for exterior shots.
At the Glory Hotel, the second floor is a large coffee shop, with lovely views over the valley and the set below. The Seoul Electric Company building hosts a lunch counter. Many of the smaller shop buildings, such as the French Bakery, sell candy and other baked treats.
A view of old “Seoul” with the “Glory Hotel” in the background. In “Mr. Sunshine,” the main character lives in the hotel. / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields
The training center in Nonsan opened in 1951, during the Korean War. Over the past 70 years, hundreds of thousands of Korean men have spent several weeks there as they began their compulsory military duties. While Nonsan Basic Training Center was not the only basic training camp in decades past, it was the biggest and is now the sole army training camp for recruits. I've not met any Korean men who would like to go back. For most, basic training was hard, and all do not welcome the compulsory military service requirement, but there is little or no choice but to serve.
I often heard young men speak of their time at “Nonsan Dae” (university) in years past. There is no university at Nonsan. They meant that their university education was disrupted by having to do their military service, so they sarcastically called it Nonsan University. The training center is not open to the public. Even when I stopped briefly to take a photo of the entrance, the gate guard approached and told me to clear out.
After lunch in town, my next stop was Tapjeong Lake. The lake was formed by a dam initially built between 1941 and 1944 and since rebuilt. The lake provides irrigation water to the thousands of hectares of farms in the Nonsan region. The lake is home to freshwater fish and recreational boating, but no swimming is allowed. In the past couple of years, the waterfront has been turned into an eco-park, with walkways around the shoreline. There are many hotels and restaurants also. One brave soul in a wet suit was windsurfing across what must have been a chilly surface when I was there. The wind was great for the sport, but walking across the bridge, the breeze was icy.
Tapjeong Lake and the newly opened suspension pedestrian bridge / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields
The newly opened Tapjeong Lake suspension bridge was my destination. The bridge was opened late in 2021 and officially inaugurated on March 1, 2022. Somehow the date is fitting since the Japanese built the first dam. The pedestrian bridge is almost 600 meters from north to south, with viewing platforms in the middle. Nonsan City has also furnished the bridge with free wifi since no one can live without that at such a beautiful place. Though not in my plans, the walking courses around the banks of the lake would give many people the great pleasure of exercise, scenic beauty, and clean air.
Continuing north from Nonsan toward Seoul, my final stop of the day was the Onpit Nature Forest. Though the house and the surrounding grounds are private property, the owners have graciously allowed visitors to hike through the woods and see the house that was the exterior setting for the hit TV 2021 series, “Our Beloved Summer.” Even in early spring, the setting was romantic, and many young couples were wandering through the grounds, taking photos in front of the house and enjoying the pleasant day.
This private country home was a backdrop for a popular 2021 TV series. / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields
Nonsan City has worked hard to beautify the town, installing walkways, bike lanes and landscaping on major roads. The tourism department of the city government has worked to develop the region into a destination that goes beyond its reputation of years past. I found it a delightful day trip, but I cheated by going down to the area the day before and spending the night. The highway from Seoul to Nonsan is modern, and the distance is about 150 kilometers, so depending on traffic, one might either take a very early start in a private car and plan to return to Seoul quite late, or take a weekend and enjoy more of what the region has to offer.
Rev. Steven L. Shields is president of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea (www.raskb.com) and columnist for The Korea Times. Visit raskb.com or email
royalasiatickorea@gmail.com
for more information about the society.