Jon Dunbar is a copy editor at The Korea Times, as well as editor of the Foreign Community page and curator of the Korea Times Archive. If you have suggestions for possible articles, or wish to contribute articles yourself, contact jdunbar@koreatimes.co.kr.
RAS Korea US' 1871 invasion of Ganghwa Island
United States Marines on the walls of Deokjin fort, Ganghwa Island, June 1871. / Courtesy of RAS Korea
By Jon Dunbar
By Steven L. Shields
U.S. warships entered Korean waters in the spring of 1871. Supposedly a diplomatic mission to secure a treaty protecting shipwrecked sailors, misunderstanding prevailed. Both parties mishandled the situation and the shooting started. A landing party arrived at Choji fort, but the first shot was fired north of there. But this fort is where the primary battle broke out on June 10.
The U.S. Marines, joined by sailors, continued northward along the coastline of the island, proceeding from Choji fort to Deokjin fort, which Joseon forces had abandoned. While there, the Marines took their now-famous group photo while standing on the walls of the fort.
The march to the next objective, Sondolmok fort and the fortress of Gwangseongbo, was grueling. The island is hilly, then with lots of brush and other growth. The sun was hot in June. But their destination was the main stronghold of the Joseon forces, and they meant to resolve the problem by force.
The nearby Bonggol Village, nestled in a valley surrounded by parallel hills, was the site of some of the fiercest fighting, with U.S. forces on one side of the valley, Joseon forces on the other. Each tried to gain strategic advantage. The Americans positioned their artillery on the hills. Today, the importance of the small village is scarcely known by the villagers or historians.
The march by both forces, U.S. and Joseon, ended at the main fortress and came to its conclusion in the small confines of Gwangseongbo. Inside the 30-meter-diameter battlements, General Eo Jae-yeon and at least 200 of his men fought without surrender or retreat. The Joseon patriotic forces were massacred. General Eo's banner was taken by the U.S. Marines as a prize. The flag was displayed in the museum of the U.S. Naval Academy for more than a century. It was returned to Korea, but only on loan, in 2007.
The Americans suffered three deaths and a handful of wounded. The Joseon army lost more than 300 men. The forces on both sides were about equal in strength. But the Americans' overwhelming firepower and modern artillery were simply more than Joseon could beat back.
In the mid-19th century, the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910) was closed to outsiders. A fiercely protectionist government spurned all efforts by outsiders, except for the Qing kingdom in China. Joseon was the last conquest for international commerce and Christian recruitment. Opening to the outside world came at a high cost, with one-sided and grossly inequitable treaties imposed on the kingdom. The Japanese, always a bother to the peninsula, finally succeeded in forcing open a handful of ports. The French invaded and made off with relevant government documents and historical records. In every case, the Joseon government was met with overwhelming firepower from the outsiders, because its closed-door policy had prevented modernization of its armed forces.
Ganghwa Island is just off the west coast of Korea, north of Incheon. Located strategically at the mouth of the Han River, it has long been in the first line of defense against invasion by sea. The island has a rich cultural heritage. From prehistoric sites to recently organized hiking trails, Ganghwa's sparse population makes it an idyllic retreat from the busy city streets of the Seoul and Incheon metropolitan areas.
Ganghwa town sports a famous marketplace, where ginseng and other local products are popular. The site of a 13th-century Goryeo palace is marked, but there are no remnants. A more-than-100-year-old Anglican church stands on a hill overlooking the town. It was built in traditional hanok architecture. Still an active house of worship, the church welcomes visitors. Prehistoric dolmen (stone structures that may have been tomb sites) are protected cultural heritage sites. Wildflowers abound.
Mount Mani, island's highest peak, is where tradition says the legendary founder of Korea, Dangun, built an altar. Celebrations at the altar are held each year by loyal believers and heritage enthusiasts. On the slopes of a nearby mountain is Jeondeung Temple, a well-known Buddhist temple. Dating to the 918-1392 Goryeo Kingdom, the temple has played an essential role in the history of the island.
Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) Korea offers a scheduled tour, usually in the fall, to Ganghwa Island, which follows in the footsteps of the invaders. The hike is still just as challenging as it was in June 1871, except the weather in autumn is usually a bit friendlier. RAS Korea's docent for the excursion is Thomas Duvernay, an associate professor in the College of Basic Studies at Yeungnam University in Gyeongsan, North Gyeongsang Province. He is a historian whose main focus is on late Joseon. Duvernay campaigned for years for the return of the flag of General Eo. He has a comprehensive book on the 1871 action coming out in the not-too-distant future. His other interest is traditional Korean archery, which he has practiced since 1993.
Visit
or
for current information and schedules for this fascinating trip into the past, and many other opportunities to explore Korea and the marvels of its history and culture.
Steven L. Shields, a retired cleric, serves as a vice president of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea (www.raskb.com) and is a columnist for The Korea Times.