By Kim Young-jin
Staff reporter
Take an evening stroll through Hongdae, Seoul, and one encounters a diverse smorgasbord of music ― punk blaring from underground, house beats from the clubs, the ubiquitous sound of K-pop emanating from storefronts. There’s even the occasional street troubadour, strumming popular numbers on an acoustic guitar.
The musical mash-up, especially in warm weather, elicits that elusive feeling Bob Dylan once described by singing “... there was music in the cafes at night and revolution in the air.” This sense of freedom was widely celebrated in the popular music of the 1960s and early ‘70s by artists such as Dylan, Janis Joplin, The Band, The Beatles, Joni Mitchell and many others.
In the ultra-hip Hongdae area, the musical flame of that revolutionary era still burns bright. Though they may be tricky to find, a number of retro music bars – dives with DJs and extensive collections of LPs ― are spinning the absolute best of the period. Whether you’re a vinyl archeologist or an urban dweller seeking shelter from the storm, these spots likely have just the fix you’re looking for.
I first stumbled upon such a place a few months ago around the time Dylan played his first-ever show in Korea. Located at the edge of Hongdae’s pedestrian strip, a bar called Dylan and Young specializes in the music of, well, Dylan and Neil Young. The large neon sign with Bob’s mug circa “Blonde on Blonde” was enough to draw me in.
Walking the stairs up to the third-floor bar, one instantly realizes they are in a retro-zone, and for music junkies, one that feels a bit like home ― the walls are plastered with album covers from the likes of Pink Floyd, Jimi Hendrix and B.B. King.
The interior, however, is a shrine to Bob and Neil ― enormous framed photos of the prolific songwriters adorn the walls of the quaint bar, and its collection of some 2,000 records features the entire catalogues of both. Upon entering I was greeted by a live version of Young’s classic “Old Man,” followed by, upon request, a string of “Bringing it All Back Home”-era Dylan tunes.
The bar seems rarely more than sparsely filled, and its cozy wooden interior and windows looking out onto the milling Hongdae crowd make it a perfect way to step away from the bustle.
Suzie Q, not far from Hongik University’s main gate, is known for its wide collection of ‘60s and early ‘70s folk, blues and rock. Featuring over 5,000 records, one is able to hear virtually any artist from the era at this underground tavern. A request for Leonard Cohen was immediately met with selections from his classic “Songs from a Room.”
While Cho Kyu-nam, owner of the bar, is happy to meet all requests, given his druthers he always delves into his passion ― the blues.
“Howlin’ Wolf, Muddy Waters, Otis Rush, Albert King ― these are the artists I play when there aren’t any requests,” he said.
He added the bar offers not only the chance to request that song stuck in your head, but also to discover a musical nugget from the past.
“These days, people tend to just listen to the music they like,” Cho said. “But here, one can hear songs chosen by someone with a lot of experience in music, songs that touch the soul. There’s a lot of music from back in the day that most people still haven’t heard.”
Not far away is Byrds, which in addition to its 3000 records boasts a vast treasure of concert footage, played on a large projection screen. Though the clips weren’t rolling on my visit, its healthy selection includes Dylan flicks ``I’m Not There” and ``Don’t Look Back.” Plus, its impressive array of Woodstock-era concert lithographs puts one in the mood to turn back the clock.
Finally, if you’re after a bit more of an edge, check out Holic Music Bar, which caters to the classic rock lover with its definitive collection from the ‘70s and ‘80s. Expect to hear plenty of Led Zeppelin, the Doors, the Who, and Queen (though the DJ here is prone to add a dash of Bob Marley and some contemporary artists into the mix as well). The disco ball that throws multicolored light throughout the venue adds a touch of throwback ambience.
So whether it’s the jingle-jangle of the ‘60s or the psychedelics of the ‘70s that lights your fire, Hongdae is likely to have what you’re looking for ― on vinyl.
Dylan and Young is accessible from Hongdae Subway Station exit number 4. Take a right out of the station, walk until you reach the pedestrian strip and then make a left. The third-floor bar is located about 150 meters away, on the left side.
To get to Suzie Q walk from Hongik University’s main gate towards Sangsu Station. After passing Club Evans on the right side, Suzie Q is located down a nearby side street. Byrds is located down a side street some 150 meters down the road, also on the right.
Holic Music Bar is down a side street across from Sangsang Art Hall, across from the restaurant Castle Praha, which looks like a large castle.