A photographic history of Tapgol Park: Part 2

The park circa 1908

• Published Mar 4, 2018 10:26 AM KST
• Updated Mar 4, 2018 10:26 AM KST

By Robert Neff

Lowell’s visit generated some interest in the pagoda amongst a handful of Americans visiting Seoul. In April 1884, another group of Americans ― this time naval officers ― sought out and wrote about the pagoda.

“On our return, or on our way back, rather, to Chong Dong, we went in search of the remains of the only Buddhist Temple in Seoul, Buddhism scarcely existing in this part of Corea, though it flourishes in the southern provinces.

“It is a small memorial of some sort, in the form of a pagoda of white marble, thirty feet in height, in many stories with projections from each, once ornamental with many bells, of which only two remain. The marble work is excellent, and each story is decorated with panels in high relief representing events in the life of Buddha, all executed in a surprisingly spirited and artistic way. And around it are grouped torsos, and other fragments of sculpture, from the old temple.”

Like Lowell, the naval officers claimed the site was hard to find “as houses have grown up around it, and we had to go through a house to it, as it were, in a back-yard.” Since Lowell’s first visit, the Korean gentleman who was in charge of the site apparently realized that there was money to be made:

“[The] man of the house came up to us, and tapping on a light board shelf at the base of the pagoda, intimated that a supply of cash was solicited, and we had to make an offering to the shrine, which will probably go for sam-shu and tobacco.”

For many years the site remained neglected until 1897 when McLeavy Brown, a Scotch-Irish barrister working for the Joseon government, suggested making the area into a Western-style park. In this way, he argued, the pagoda, which had been built in the 15th century and damaged during the 17th century Japanese invasion [the top three storys had been knocked off and left on the ground], could be repaired and serve as the park’s centerpiece.

By 1903, Brown had a small enclosure built around the pagoda but his efforts to repair it were thwarted by the Korean “court necromancers” who vehemently opposed the idea, claiming that “great misfortunes would befall the country if the top was replaced.” Brown was forced to abandon the restoration.

Over the years, the park continued to transform and became a popular attraction of downtown Seoul. Concerts were held in the summer, young lovers went there to escape the disapproving glares of their elders and children had a spot to play.

And yet, despite the passage of time, no one fulfilled Brown’s vision until February 17, 1946, when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, with the aid of a large crane, replaced the fallen pieces to their original place in just 45 minutes.

Brown would have been delighted but what about the “court necromancers” and their prophecy?

The peninsula was divided and then devastated by the Korean War. In March 1956 a statue of President Syngman Rhee was erected in the park but a little over four years later was torn down and dragged through the streets during the April Revolution (April 19, 1960) that toppled his government.

The next time you go to Tapkol Park and walk amongst the trees while looking at the murals, stop for a moment and listen to the breeze. Maybe you will hear the faint sound of prophecy, history and hope that surround this sacred ground in the middle of Seoul.