Tainan, the city where it all started
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By Hu Young-sup
I recently visited Tainan, the oldest city in Taiwan. As the first arena of struggles between its native people and foreigners who landed here and built a European-style fortification in the early 17th century, there are still many famous sites and relics within its boundaries. So to speak, Taiwan’s history as we know the island country started to unfold in Tainan.
For instance, the Confucian shrines there are among the oldest in Taiwan. Memorial rituals revering this ancient sage and other scholars with great wisdom are held seasonally.
It is understandable in this regard that Tainan was approved to be a member of the Historical Cities' League along with Palestine’s Hebron and Kutaisi in Georgia last July. The league reportedly comprises 95 cities in 59 countries throughout the world.
It is no exaggeration to say that Tainan, with the old name Anping, is the starting point if you want to look around Taiwan with the aim of learning about its history. First of all, the southwestern coastal city was the Taiwanese capital for nearly 300 years after foreigners invaded the island. Due to its difficult historical struggles, it now preserves a rich cultural heritage.
Not only moss-covered temples but also time-honored alleys just behind the main streets will help you feel how people lived in the past and are living today. Its food and subtropical scenery are not to be missed.
Its night market bustles with visitors after the sun sets. It is certainly a place where you can enjoy various local cuisine and tropical fruits, which including mango and pineapple. Needless to say, the sea offers abundant fare such as oysters, shrimp and milkfish.
For first-time visitors, Tainan might appear to be an ordinary countryside town. However, it is not shabby or humble but cozy and amicable for tourists who want to relax. And that was the feeling I had upon arrival at Tainan Station by high-speed rail from Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport near Taipei.
Downtown, the roads are just wide enough for the cars not to speed and the buildings are not as daunting as in other metropolises. And it seems as if every snug alley and street corner holds stories yet untold.
Just a few steps into the alleys, there wait memorable views with traditional markets, craft shops and sapid smelling cafes. You can easily imagine drinking oriental tea while listening to soothing songs from somewhere close by. Banyan or camphor trees with dense leaves often stand like guardians of the villagers.
Of course, the new town, formed at the western part of the city to the sea side, boasts a broad and tidy residential area as well as tall stylish buildings that harmonize with the surrounding landscape. Tainan also has a number of canals, swamps, orchards and mountains in addition to the sea. It is also possible to find a number of marine routes that connect with mainland China.
Tainan is an unusual region where you can enjoy the atmosphere, exhaustively crossing between past and present, urban and rural areas. It is also noteworthy that its government receives higher marks than other local administrations. Mayor William Lai, a former doctor, is emerging as a national leader to succeed ex-President Chen Shui-bian and former candidate Tsai Ing-wen of the opposition Democratic Progressive Party.
General Cheng Cheng-kung is the most famous historical figure in Tainan. He was the hero who repelled the Dutch invaders who occupied the city for 40 years. Fort Zeelandia, built of red brick on the coast, tells his story. The prestigious National Cheng-Kung University celebrates his name, too.
You must remember not to omit Tainan from your itinerary if you plan to visit Taiwan.
The writer is a freelance columnist. Contact him at gracias1234@naver.com.