A tale of two rivers
By David Kendall
About two hours South of Seoul, Buyeo sits on the Baengmagang, a beautiful river that used to look sadly neglected. Tour boats still only sprint around Nakhwaam (The Place Where Flowers Fell), indicating that without Baekje Kingdom maidens committing mass suicide there in 660, even these brief river excursions would not exist.
Major construction is underway to turn Buyeo’s riverfront into a showplace. Cranes along its once-serene banks are now of the mechanical variety, moving mounds of sand or buckets of muddy water. Investment in Buyeo’s tourist potential is long overdue, but I hope developers never set sights on ``restoring” Donggang in Gangwon Province.
Heavy equipment can do nothing but detract from that river’s value. Some of its bends wind so tightly around steep cliffs that they retain that rarest of Korean views; one without any trace of civilization: no buildings, no roads, not even any trails or power lines off in the distance. River rafting is the only way through that large well-preserved gulley, and it should remain that way.
Sections accessible by car and bike are also striking, and those who live along the Donggang seem to appreciate the river as much as the fish visible in its mountain-pure water. Expensive residences in Seoul’s Gangnam sometimes ignore sweeping views of the Hangang in favor of southern exposures, but no farmer on either bank of the Donggang could turn his house away from its allure.
A few restaurants catering to large bused-in groups have sprouted up. Some of these turn individuals away. I imagine that such restaurateurs, Buyeo boat operators, and most Korean sock and glove manufacturers all think the same way: ``Even if some customers pay for coverage that goes a little beyond the norm, there aren’t enough to make changing familiar patterns worthwhile.” This self-fulfilling mindset has major opportunity costs.
Not far from the Donggang in the Sogeumgang Valley is a perfectly placed example – at least from a Western perspective. This ``pension” (say American retirement plan, think tourist condo) has a funky design and location that would entice many Westerners, but its website offers minimal English and even fewer images of its panoramic view. The owners are open to foreign tourists, I know because I stayed there and encouraged them (unsuccessfully) to advertise on an expat-geared website.
I admire their dream of a hip mountain retreat with a live-music lounge and want to see it succeed. Koreans often do not appreciate what they have. ``There’s nothing to do here when the ski resorts are closed,” said one pension worker, but within walking distance is an interesting old elementary school/turned local art center and across from that a shrine for shaman rituals. A short drive delivers up the long Hwaam Cave; the effervescent, metallic taste of a nearby mineral spring; and all of the attractions of Jeongseon that flow toward the Donggang.
These sites may seem commonplace without high National Treasure rankings and the corresponding crowds, but for those hungry for a taste of natural charm, they have the same pull that loud slot machines have on gamblers. A little more effort attracting their attention and providing the kind of service expected (e.g. clean sheets and restrooms) is all that is needed.
Even on three-day weekends when traffic is a nightmare, rail passengers can glide easily in and out of Seoul via Cheongnyangni Station, pick up a rental car in Wonju and be on a traffic-free road trip through the Taebaek Mountains in under two hours ― provided they read Hangeul and have a Korean or international driver’s license. KORAIL and car-rental agencies should advertise English-friendly rail-car packages.
Korean mountain getaways are very appealing when traffic jams are taken out of the picture and GPS can zero in on hideaways. If people are encouraged to explore the countryside at their own pace and taste, they could spend as much in aggregate as the occasional big tour groups and would definitely spread their money further around.
David Kendall is a former editor/writer for Yonhap News and Korea.net who writes about Korea’s lesser-known positive features. For more information visit www.unlockingkorea.com.