'Failure is the driving force to success'
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Veteran designer Chang Kwang-hyo poses behind a frame. / Courtesy of Caruso by Chang Kwang-hyo
First Korean menswear designer: Chang Kwang-hyo
This is the second in a series of interviews with Korean fashion designers participating at the 2016 S/S Seoul Fashion Week that is scheduled from Oct.10-21. ― ED.
By Kim Jae-heun
Veteran menswear designer Chang Kwang-hyo boasts of many titles during his 31-year career.
He is the founding member of the Seoul Fashion Artists Association (SFAA) which organized the first Korean fashion shows in November, 1990, and he is still active in the field.
Chang earned a bachelor’s degree in Industrial Design from the Fine Arts School at Kookmin University in 1976, and a masters in Textile Deign from Hongik University in 1984. The following year, he studied fashion at the Fountain Blue Art School in Paris; but was unsure whether he would pursue a career in fashion design. His parents wanted him to be either a doctor or lawyer. Chang, on the other hand wanted to study arts, however, he failed to get into a school. He then discovered a department teaching fashion design.
Models wearing Chang Kwang-hyo’s Caruso collection behind the stage at the Paris pret-a-porter in 1994. / Courtesy of Caruso by Chang Kwang Hyo
“I studied fashion when there were no male students,” he said during an interview with The Korea Times. “Back then, the curriculum was only for women,” he added.
“I may sound too proud, but I represent the first generation of menswear fashion in Korea. I designed the first menswear, I became the first male Korean to participate in Paris fashion collection and I held the most fashion collection shows in Korea,” Chang said.
The designer felt a great responsibility to devote himself to his works, and ensured that he never missed Seoul Fashion Week. Chang did not want to disappoint the audience viewing his collections. His designs were inspired by “Korean” and “fun” elements.
In September 1987, Chang launched his own menswear brand, Caruso. He established his brand because he lost his previous job as head designer at Cambridge and Nonno of Cheil Industries when they went out of business, Caruso rapidly gained popularity. In three years, Chang opened 30 stores, including counters in department stores. He also designed stage outfits for male celebrities including Cho Yong-pil and So Bang Cha.
But above all, his first appearance at Paris pret-a-porter show in 1994 was the most unforgettable, according to Chang.
“It is easy to participate in the Paris Fashion Week now, but it was like traveling to the moon for a Korean designer to introduce his brand in one of the world’s renowned fashion cities back in the 1990’s. When models were finished putting on their make-up and clothing and were ready to go down the catwalk, tears filled my eyes. I can’t forget the moment. I only used world-class models because I had pride as a designer representing Korea,” Chang said.
In his first Paris show, Chang’s collection was based on concepts from the Gaya Kingdom (43-532), using simple traditional colors such as white and ivory in modern and avant-garde designs. The show was an instant success and local media introduced him as the Jean Paul Gautier from the East. Chang has changed the perceptions of Asian designers in Paris and has exhibited six more collections there.
The top Asian designer bore all international event expenses himself. Designers now are financially supported by the government to participate in global fashion shows. Chang says he has no regrets over the money he spent, as his success in France has paved the way for the younger generation to enter the European market more easily.
However, he worries that young designers may be only seeking chances to make profits overseas, while avoiding the domestic market. He also expressed concern over designers misusing the advantages of a digital environment in which they can have easy and immediate access to top designer’s new collections and could copy their designs.
“From time to time, I hear young designers only saying they want to enter overseas markets. But it is harder to make sales outside now. If you have the skill to make good designs, there is always a chance. It’s all about experiencing failure.
“In Korea, the 30-something designers are the driving force. They may have up-to-date information but they lack experience because they haven’t gone through failures. Globally, designers in their 60s and 70s control major fashion houses,” Chang said.