This is the first in a series of articles covering restaurants specializing in authentic international food. Authentic here doesn't mean sticking to the way things should be, it's about representing the "heart and soul" of the culture. This series is produced in collaboration with Todd Sample and Sara Park of food consulting brand ToddSample Eats that recommends authentic international food in Korea. This monthly series will be a "dine & talk" journey exploring food from different regions and the people who are behind making them. -- ED.
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Lee Young-woo (Giulio), owner chef of Spacca Napoli, presents one of his signature Napoli pizzas, the Pizza Margherita, at his restaurant in Sinchon, northern Seoul, Feb. 21. / Courtesy of ToddSample Eats
Spacca Napoli
By Yun Suh-young Finding "real" Italian pizza in Seoul is easier now than 10 years ago, but there are still only a handful in the city that can actually qualify as "authentic." Authentic isn't about branding or the look and feel of a place or the plate -- it's the taste, and the soul that's put into the food that brings alive the feel of a country. Feeling Italy in Seoul, especially through pizzas, in that sense, takes a bit of legwork. Among the 10 or so "authentic" Italian pizzerias in Seoul, there's one highly recommended by ToddSample Eats -- Spacca Napoli. The pizzeria which opened in Hapjeong in 2011, now has a second location in its neighborhood, Sinchon, which opened last year. "I heard from the owner of the next door Italian restaurant Ciuri Ciuri that he ordered pizza from Spacca Napoli for his employees, but he received a call from Giulio that he would have to cancel the order because the dough wasn't optimal that day (as it was affected by the weather). After hearing that, I was really impressed by this artisan chef for sticking to his principles -- trying to provide the best. That's what I'm talking about, when we say authentic," said Sample. That was his reason for recommending this restaurant to start off this series -- simply to show what authenticity really means. That it's all about the professionalism, dedication, passion and the heart that makes the food and place noteworthy. Lee Young-woo (Giulio), owner chef of Spacca Napoli, speaks during an interview with The Korea Times Feb. 21, at his Sinchon restaurant. / Courtesy of ToddSample Eats Giulio “Spacca” Lee (Lee Young-woo), CEO and pizzaiolo (pizza maker) of Spacca Napoli, is a living example of that. He's also the first and only Korean to ever win at the Pizza Napoletana Classic World Championship held in Napoli every year -- the very birthplace of Napoli pizza -- in 2015. "It was very rewarding but also a whiplash. It triggered me to keep striving to be better. And it was a turning point in my career," said Lee, reminiscing on the past. The prize came just when he wanted to quit and let go of everything. Lee suffered from a severe illness several years back. Even when he entered the competition, he hadn’t quite recovered. It was just when the business was doing its best that a piercing pain hit him in his leg. It was a disease without a particular cure. It was a neurogenic illness due to stress. "I should have gone to a neurosurgeon instead of an orthopedist. It lasted for years. I'm now much better but it was such an indescribable, unbearable pain that I couldn't stand up. And my job requires standing up all day. It was a really hard time," he said. The stress came from his ambition for perfection. He was pushing himself too hard to get the perfect outcome, which -- he now realizes -- is impossible to get. "I was too young and inexperienced at the time that no matter what I did, it wouldn't have been right. I let go of that frustration now and embrace the outcome as it is. I will still strive for perfection, but I won't be obsessed about it," said Lee. It has been over 10 years since he started learning pizza, and he says the learning never stops. "It looks easy, but it's so hard." Pizza Frita Classico served only at Spacca Napoli in Sinchon/ Korea Times photo by Yun Suh-young Pizza Margherita served at Spacca Napoli / Korea Times photo by Yun Suh-young His life story unfolded as he joined the table while we tried the signature dishes at his restaurant -- Pizza Fritta Classico and Pizza Margherita -- some of the Neapolitan classics, and tiramisu at the end as dessert. The tiramisu was by far the best I've ever tasted in Seoul. The pizza was chewy and soft, at just the right temperature, with fresh ingredients -- bringing back nostalgia for Napoli. "Napoli pizza is characterized by fresh ingredients, puffy crust and salty dough. The ingredients are simple. It's the dough that makes the difference along with the temperature of the stove and the baking time," said Lee. It's precisely the dough that made him kept going. "Napoli pizza is actually the simplest -- the ingredients are just tomato, cheese and basil -- but it's incredibly hard to get the best combination for dough and the perfect texture. But it's that challenge that makes Napoli pizza so attractive," said Lee. Nothing is achieved without pain, he says. "Back in the day, I was so ambitious and full of pride. If some restaurant said they sold Napoli pizza, I would scoff at them, thinking, 'What would they know?' I was full of rage. But now, I let it all go. It wasn't an epiphany but it happened gradually. That's why I say the learning never ends." Lee's encounter with Neapolitan pizza dates back to his 20s. He dropped out of college, knowing that studying was not his thing, left for Canada to live there where he met an Italian friend, Elisa, who was from the south of Italy. He followed her to Italy to travel, all the way to her hometown in Calabria. It was on the way to Calabria that he encountered pizza in Napoli. "After encountering Napoli pizza, something sparked. Then later I returned to Italy to learn more about pizza, traveling hours to different regions to learn more. At first I was disappointed by Napoli pizza because the recipe was so simple. But little did I know at the time how hard this would be," he said, chuckling. "But I think that's what makes pizzaiolos keep making pizza. My employees say it's fun because it's different all the time. That's what's attractive. That's why there are artisans. There's soul and passion. Why else would people want to do this when it's not trendy food?" Lee says he will continue making pizza till his last day. "I think it's my destiny. I don't know how to do other things anyway. I want to be remembered as Napoli pizza -- Spacca Napoli -- Giulio. I hope you go back to see if the Hapjeong location will still be there in 10 years. Unless the building is torn down, it will still be there. If the building is gone, it will be elsewhere," he said. Despite having to give up a lot of things to follow his passion, Lee doesn't regret it. "I started young and I had to give up a lot of things that young people would enjoy in life because I was always in the kitchen. But I don't regret it. I plan to spend some time for myself from now on."