Delving into the world of Alsace wine

Also nicknamed the “Venice of France,” Colamr is known to be the backdrop of Japanese animator Hayao Miyazaki’s “Howl’s Moving Castle.” / Courtesy of Rachel Sang-hee Han

• Published Feb 12, 2015 6:25 PM KST
• Updated Feb 12, 2015 6:25 PM KST

By Rachel Sang-hee Han

Stuttgart, GERMANY- As much as I enjoy drinking wine, I have to admit I am not yet an expert. I have come to the point where I can distinguish good wine from bad, but when it comes to the specifics, I’m afraid I need a bit more training.

Europe is one of the best places to learn more about wine, namely France and Italy. Wine tours and wine tastings are especially helpful, since you can taste various types of wine at the same time and really compare and recognize your favorites and learn more about the history, taste and pairings. So when there’s a chance to join a wine tour, take it and you’ll probably come home with a lot more knowledge on the subject, not to mention a lot of bottles to enjoy with friends and family.

The Alsace region

Alsace is one of the smallest regions in France located on the eastern border, very close to Germany and Switzerland. Due to the location, the region has gone through rough historical and political times and has been occupied by both France and Germany respectively in the past. It has been French territory since 1945 and while French is considered the only official language, there are various remnants of Germany and the German language here and there.

Thanks to the Rhine River and Vosges mountain range, the region is famous for its wineries, and thus is one of the most visited wine routes in France.

The Alsace wine

The vineyards, or so-called wine route, are basically concentrated in a long, narrow strip in the region, making it that much easier and efficient to travel and visit. It is around 170 kilometers long, running from north to south below the Vosges. There are a total of 67 communes, or small villages, that offer wines from respective vineyards and wineries. The area has the lowest rainfall in France and also has a semi-continental climate, which means it is sunny, hot and dry: quite fitting for white wine. Alsace, however, is not as hot as other famous wine regions such as Tuscany or Bordeaux, resulting in fresher wines that don’t have to stay too long in oak barrels. The majority of the wine from Alsace doesn’t need to age significantly to reveal its character: normally six months to around five years are enough to bring out the tangy, fruity and light aroma.

Due to the climate, most of the wines produced in Alsace are white, with the exception of some pale reds. They are categorized as to be aromatic, floral and some even spicy and because they don’t stay too long in the barrels, they tend to be very clear and pure in character compared to others. If you prefer white wine, this is the basically the place to be.

An interesting requirement for Alsatian wines is that they are bottled in tall, slim bottles called Flûtes d’Alsace. This special type of wine bottle is actually called the “vin du Rhin,” or the “Rhine wine bottle.” Such bottles can also be found in Germany, mostly for Rieslings and traditional white wines, but they originate from Alsace.

Wine tasting

Visiting wineries is quite simple. Each commune has several possibilities, so the first thing to decide on would be which village is the closest and thus easier to locate. From there, travelers can move up or down the wine route in search of wineries.

Once you locate a winery, greet the owners or waiters with a friendly “Bonjour,” and ask for the menu. (Almost everyone who works in the wineries speaks French, German and English, and they have extensive information on their websites in all three languages. Opening hours varies but reservations are not necessarily needed.) Each winery has their own respective label and the menu shows the various ranges of their products, the prices for tastings and per bottle.

If you don’t know which wine to take, you can ask the clerk for a recommendation. Paris may be famous for their rather rude waiting staff, yet the small villages of Alsace surprised me with their professionalism, hospitality and kindness. Since it’s a wine tasting, it’s more than welcome to try more than one type of wine to compare. The best thing about such wine tastings is that you can get a very in-depth lesson on not only the wine, but the overall wine industry in the region, competitors and comparisons with other wines from different regions and nations. If you can’t finish everything, which will probably happen after a couple of wineries, ask for the small vase where you can pour down the remaining and test something else. Once you have located your favorite, ask for a bottle or two, and they pack them in a nice box.

Other places to go

Strasbourg

Strasbourg is the capital city of the Alsace region, a favorite travel destination for travelers searching for culture, history and art and my personal favorite. Petite France, which was highlighted in a Korean reality show “Grandpas over Flowers” (TVN) in 2013, is especially popular, with its canals, timbered houses and overall French charm. The city is an interesting mix of both Germany and France, with both languages, cultures, food and art overlapping each other in a very interesting yet harmonious way.

Colmar

Colmar is especially popular among Asian travelers. It is situated on the center of the Alsace wine route, making it a very popular stop among wine lovers and travelers alike. The city is famous for its historical and architectural landmarks, various museums and a very well preserved old town. Due to some narrow canals that stretch within the city, there is also an area nicknamed the “Venice of France,” which was known to be the backdrop of Japanese animator Hayao Miyazaki’s “Howl’s Moving Castle.”

Mont Sainte-Odile Abbey

Situated on the top of Mont Sainte-Odile, the abbey was founded in 690 by Saint Odile, the daughter of a French duke from the region. It’s one of the highest and most beautiful points in the region where you can see the entire panoramic surroundings, all the way to Strasbourg. It’s quite a journey to reach since it is located on the top of the Vosges, but the abbey and the view is truly worth the visit.

Tips and tricks

1 Drink responsibly. Always know your limit and because the experience is for wine tasting, it’s completely fine to sip a little bit, feel the aroma and not finish what is in the glass. It may feel rude, but nobody expects anyone to drink everything. When asked if I could only get a little bit, one of the winery owners commented that they pour more because that’s how you can feel the true aroma and appreciate the color and body. So don’t feel guilty and drink responsibly.

2 Try to have at least one designated driver who will not drink and be in charge with the driving. Unless you are with a tour guide or a so-called “packaged” trip, it’s always easier to drive or rent a car. However, since the roads in and out of the Alsace region are quite narrow and curvy, be sure to have a driver who will not drink until there is no more driving required.

3 Fill yourself with a bit of food before wine tasting. Although the wines are quite light and you only get to really taste them, it can add up and you can end up drinking more than you should have. So be sure to bring some snacks and water along or make sure you stop for a proper meal before starting your wine experience.

Rachel Sang-hee Han is a former staff reporter at The Korea Times and former editor at CNN Travel. She lives in Germany and runs a travel blog at rachelsanghee.com