K-fashion, evolving

• Published Feb 5, 2015 4:47 PM KST
• Updated Feb 5, 2015 4:47 PM KST

‘Securing distribution networks more important than landing shows’

By Kwon Ji-youn, Kim Jae-heun

To one side of the runway at Fashion KODE 2015 were designs that weren’t quite the usual you see here in Korea. Blouses shrouded in filigree and skirts that narrowed into lettuce hems hung in booths hoisting seven unfamiliar labels -- among them were Enjoy Nature, Where What Who and C.Colectare.

Seven Chinese clothing brands were featured at this year’s Fashion KODE, a fashion-culture fair organized by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, the Korean Creative Content Agency and the Council of Fashion Designers of Korea.

Designer Danni of brand Where What Who said these designers are here to learn.

“Korean fashion is very popular in China, especially the designs of Dongdaemun,” she said. “They’re new, they’re creative.”

Korean designers began flocking to China amid the fashion “hallyu” (Korean Wave) boom that peaked with the success of the drama “My Love from the Star,” but it isn’t often that Chinese designers, who often prefer to fly east to learn, arrive in Seoul for that purpose.

“I have a show in Paris, which is much bigger than KODE,” said Sicong Liu, designer for C.Colectare. “And while KODE isn’t as global as shows in European fashion capitals, we have come to Seoul to grow, to learn what Korean buyers like. Chinese people are partial to Korean designs, which are often stylish, but still wearable.”

Both Danni and Liu agreed that hallyu has had a sizeable impact on China’s growing attraction to Korean fashion. Actors and idols alike have made lasting impressions on Chinese fans, who have shown a burgeoning interest in the clothes and accessories these celebrities sport.

“Fashion hallyu is definitely real,” said Liu, who studied in Milan and whose brand is based in Paris. “There is very little exaggeration when describing the popularity of Korean content in China, and this has led to an increasing demand for said styles.”

Danni agreed.

“I personally think this is because Korean designers are more creative,” she said. “And I believe the design experience is better here -- the market, the environment, the government support.”

Korean designers can feel such changes in their bones.

Lie Chung-chung of Lie by Lie, son of big fashion name Lie Sang-bong, said this may be because his brand boasts designs that are trendy but are wearable -- exactly what Liu was describing.

“KODE gives us a chance to appeal to foreign buyers -- mostly from China, Hong Kong and Japan,” Lie said. “I personally think you need a competitive edge in foreign markets to acquire a competitive edge locally.”

Designer Lee Ju-young of Resurrection said she aims to appeal to foreign buyers, who take a liking to designs that stand out.

“As of today, it is true that China is still following in our footsteps,” Lee said. “Chinese buyers seek design consulting from us because they cannot create their own designs or make patterns.”

But Lee worried that these Chinese designers appear to be growing at too rapid a pace.

“If we don’t step up our game, we may fall behind,” she said. “They may not be able to create their own patterns, but they know the market and have secured distribution networks, which could put them ahead.”

The pitfalls?

Danni and Liu said that while taking part in Fashion KODE was instructive, the experience also shed light on the drawbacks of jumping into the Korean market too fast and too soon.

“I visited Garosu-gil this morning, and was surprised to see that the designs in a good number of shop windows resembled each other,” Danni said.

“Chinese designs, including mine, are more radical. We get our inspirations from rock bands and music. I worry that there is no room for Chinese brands in Korea.”

Helen Chung of Enjoy Nature agreed.

“Korean designs are more agreeable. They better fit international penchants, while Chinese designs can appear limited.”

On the other hand, it is plain sailing for Korean designers hoping for stakes in the Chinese market.

Danni said that with the jump of Korean designers there, a turf war has surfaced.

“We have more buyer shops in China, so beginners in fashion may more easily get chances to sell their products,” she said. “In other words, it’s easier to jump into the market in China.”

Chung added that because the country is so big, and the consumers have such varied tastes, the market will serve as a Utopia for young Korean designers.

For a global name?

But for a truly global name to crop up in Korea, the industry needs to reason designers out of their obstinacy and help them secure distribution networks before launching collections and landing shows, according to Lee.

“The fashion market is one that requires a lot of investment and promotion,” she said. “It’s about how many people out there know of you and your brand.

“The money that goes into launching a collection overseas is extravagant,” she added.

Lee said that these days, amateurs jump thoughtlessly into fashion, confident that their blog success will lead to success in the real world.

“These young designers know very little about fashion and they skip all necessary steps,” she said. “If this continues, no Korean designer will be able to make it big in Europe.”

Lee added that while to Chinese designers it may seem as though Korean designers are working in an atmosphere well-suited to young designers in want of experience and growth, the reality is often quite different.

“Designers in Korea need to worry about everything, from package and logo designs to lighting and music,” she said. “In New York, designers focus on designing. Such needs to change.”

What is Fashion KODE?

Fashion KODE is a fashion-culture fair that takes place twice a year. It aims to strengthen the potential of Korean fashion brands in the global fashion market and boost the development of the fashion and cultural industries in Korea.