Hakata Bunko’s ramen dazzles

By Ines Min

Staff reporter

In Juzo Itami’s 1985 film “Tampopo,” the scene is set with reverence. A ramen master sits down to savor a bowl of traditional Japanese noodles - a young apprentice by his side - stoic, yet ready to impart the wisdom of eating the zippy ramen with the art of a connoisseur.

The narrow alleyway hideout of Hakata Bunko inspires the same sense of awe and appetite for a steaming bowl of fresh ramen. The small, narrow restaurant boasts a hardwood interior, yellowed handwritten menus nailed to the wall, and an atmosphere electrified by the cooks efficiency and chatter, a mix of Japanese and Korean.

Though the restaurant might not be the most authentically Japanese, the cozy ambiance certainly keeps the modern world mostly at bay. Limited seating warms the restaurant with an intimate feel of antiquity, with patrons eating elbow-to-elbow or back-to-back.

Ordering is simple at Hakata as there are only three items to be had at this no-nonsense hole-in-the-wall. “Een ramen,” which swims in a thick, full-bodied broth, is their most famous option and the tastiest.

“Two een ramen!” follows a cry. Seconds later, “One een ramen!” Only a low counter separates the kitchen from the restaurant, enabling patrons to watch as the cook rapidly flicks his wrist to skillfully shake off excess liquid from portioned bundles of noodles.

Large ladles scoop the famous “tonkatsu” (literally, pork bones) broth into bowls that need to make only a short journey to a table.

The soup itself is a thing of wonder. Made by boiling pork bones for hours at a time, the result is a complexity infused with the flavor of meat, fat and marrow.

The soup turns to a milky off-white, creamy broth that is hard to not gulp down immediately. The noodles also carry a fresh tenderness that is difficult to find elsewhere.

While packaged instant ramen noodles have a chewy, unmistakable trademark texture, Hakata Bunko cooks theirs to the perfect softness and consistency.

But the feature that completes the delectable bowl of ramen is the customizable toppings available at each table. Fresh cloves of peeled garlic can be crushed straight into your dish, as well as sesame seed grounds. A separate container for kimchi presents itself as a self-serve pot, filled with a variety not too fresh, not too fermented. This triumvirate of flavors compliments the ramen unbelievably well.

The only negative aspect of the restaurant is the lines that can set back a meal 30 to 45 minutes. Kept at bay from the entrance by several feet - and sandwiched between a cone and a worn rope - hungry folk from all over the city gather to receive their share of heaven’s noodles.

But, for only 7,000 won a bowl, the wait is certainly worthwhile.

Information: Take subway line number 6 to Sangsu station, exit 2. Walk in the direction of Hongdae and take a right down the alleyway near the Far East Broadcasting Co. sign. Call (02) 338-5536.