Mt. Baekdu ― Most Famous and Sacred Korean Mountain
By Oleg Kiriyanov
Contributing writer
It would be difficult to find a Korean (either from the South or the North) who hasn't heard of Baekdu Mountain. It is regarded as the most sacred peak of the Korean Peninsula, and Koreans believe it to be the location of the nation's origin.
Frankly speaking, Baekdu Mountain was bound to be famous ― at the very least because it's the highest peak in Korea. The 2,744-meter high mountain is actually situated on the border of China and North Korea, with two thirds of it in North Korean territory. It is among the 10 most famous mountains of China. But for Koreans, it will always be Mountain Number 1.
Its Korean name means ``white-headed mountain.'' In China it is known as the ``perpetually white mountain,'' or "Changbaishan." It looks white throughout the year despite not always being covered with snow due to the abundant pumice on its slopes.
Though the greater portion of the mountain belongs to North Korea, most tourists, for reasons understandable, visit from the Chinese side. Those lucky enough to see Mt. Baekdu from both countries insist that it looks much more impressive from North Korea. Nevertheless, a tour through China also presents a good opportunity to enjoy its striking beauty.
There are three main attractions at Mt. Baekdu: A 70-meter-high waterfall; ``Cheonji,'' or Heaven Lake; and the peak itself, with its unforgettable birds' eye view of the lake
The impressive waterfall is on the road to the lake, and most tourists consider it an essential photo op. in front of it. To climb to the lake itself takes some effort ― but the endeavor is certainly worthwhile. Determined climbers will find a beautiful valley, and after a few hundred more meters, the shore of the sacred Heaven Lake.
Mt. Baekdu is actually a volcano, and the lake, situated 2,189 meters above sea level, was formed in a crater. Its average depth is about 200 meters, with a maximum depth of 373 meters. A display near Cheonji boasts it to be the highest lake of volcanic origin. Tourists do not typically swim in the lake, as it rarely gets warmer than 10 degrees Celsius, even in summer.
But the most impressive view of the lake is not from its shore but from the peak of the mountain. To get there, one must catch a ride on one of jeeps that shuttle from the crossroads where the roads leading to the peak and Cheonji separate.
A few words must be said about the journey to the peak. One tourist counted 49 steep turns on the way there. The drivers, dressed in office-style suites with neckties, are always very friendly and polite ― but the biggest impression they leave is their driving style. One may feel they are participating in a Formula 1 race ― driving at the highest speed possible, brakes screaming, tourists yelling ― a dose of adrenaline is guaranteed. But the drivers are experienced, and know the road well.
Walk about 200 meters from where the drivers stop and you'll see that famous view of the Heaven Lake often be seen in traditional Korean pictures and postcards. The famous Russian traveler Nikolay Garin, who visited Mt. Baekdu about 150 years ago, said of Cheonji: ``The lake was shining like the best emerald in the world. The lake was so green, so clean and so wonderful! The peaks surrounding it looked like ancient black castles and ruins of old fortresses.''
Visitors of the peak understand why many Koreans believe that Mt. Baekdu is the most beautiful mountain on the entire peninsula. The view is truly outstanding.
It is said that one must be lucky to get the best views, as the sky above Mt. Baekdu is clear for only 100-150 days a year. On my own trip, the spirits of the sacred mountain must have been in a good mood.
While descending from the peak, it was difficult to ignore the impression that the mountain is gradually losing its special atmosphere, its sacredness. The shores of the Heaven Lake looked like the crowded beach of some famous resort: noisy music, crowds, and kiosks selling food and cheap souvenirs. Unfortunately, the situation is similar in other parts of the park. Like mushrooms appearing after the rain, new hotels, restaurants and spa-resorts seem to be popping up everywhere.
This is likely the inevitable price of offering wide accessibility of Mt. Baekdu to the masses. The mountain reserve, which was first created around the mountain on the North Korean side and later on the Chinese side, curbed the negative effects caused by tourists, but the park continues to suffer. Additional measures for its preservation should be taken.
Nevertheless, Baekdu Mountain remains a place that must be visited by all Koreans. Also, foreigners who invest the time, effort and money needed to make this trip will not be disappointed. If the North Korean side of the park ever becomes more open to tourists, Mt. Baekdu will certainly become an even more enticing destination.