Cool Off With Memil Noodles at Wonjo Mijin
By Lee Hyo-won
Staff Reporter
In Korea, the meaning of ``old'' can be relative: In its 5,000-year history, a 500-year-old artifact may not be considered so ancient, but within the context of the republic, a modern enterprise aged 50 can tout a long tradition.
Wonjo Mijin, founded in 1955 shortly after the Korean War (1950-53), boasts 54 years of serving ``memil'' or cold buckwheat noodles, also known as Japanese soba.
Restaurants often claim to be ``wonjo'' or the pioneer of their featured dish. But what entitles Mijin to proudly place Wonjo before its name is no secret: the memil strands may be slippery but the taste never slips.
``I've been going to Mijin ever since my university days, so for almost 40 years now. Whenever I think of memil noodles I automatically associate it with Mijin, and it never disappoints,'' Lee Geun-won, 60, told The Korea Times.
The run-down charms of the original place that Lee frequented in Jongno, in the ``meokja golmok'' or alley lined with eateries behind Kyobo Bookstore, are unfortunately gone ― due to local reconstruction. Relocated a block away, the place nevertheless continues to attract its staunch fans.
Everyone comes for one thing: to cool off with icy memil.
Thursday having marked ``daeseo,'' meaning ``great heat'' here (Midsummer's Eve in the West) and today being ``jungbok,'' the hottest day of the summer, Wonjo Mijin is busier than ever.
Koreans continue to believe in hearty nourishment as a remedy for the enervating heat. Memil noodles are a classic summer dish, and are known to be high in vitamin B and protein. For those concerned with keeping a slim waistline can also indulge themselves, for it is low-calorie, only about 220Kcal per serving.
We visited during lunch hours, and not surprisingly, there was a long line of hungry diners ranging from office workers and middle-aged housewives to senior citizens and young students. But don't be discouraged, for the line goes fairly quickly.
The now clean and modern, two-story place is packed but orders are quick and the food is served even quicker.
The crown jewel of the menu is of course the cool memil noodles (7,000 won). The slippery stuff comes in a stack of two boxes ― those with smaller stomachs might find it a bit much but may find themselves making room for more.
Memil places typically serve you one prepared bowl of the cold, savory soup where you dip the plain noodles for flavoring. Wonjo Mijin, however, offers a whole pot of soup for diners to help themselves to refills, and on the table are condiments that can be added to the soup accordingly ― ground radish, chopped green onions and shredded dried seaweed, and for those who want a little tang, a bottle of liquid ``wasabi'' (Japanese mustard).
The dish is simple enough. You dip the plain noodles into the soup, swirl them around a bit ― or hardball fans will just make a quick dabble in order to relish in the subtle taste of the memil ― and consume.
But it takes a lot to attain excellence with simplicity; the noodles have a perfect consistency and chewy texture that provide for a cool summer relish.
Also on the menu are ``bibim'' memil noodles that come soup-less and in a spicy pepper sauce veggie mix or ``on'' memil noodle soup, which is served warm.
Other alternatives to the regular memil noodles are other memil products like ``muk'' or buckwheat gelatin served in various forms, alone or with rice and veggies. Highly recommended as a compliment to your main dish is the memil ``jeonbyeong,'' thin buckwheat pancake rolls filled with veggies.
Located on the first floor of Lumiere Building, near Kyobo Bookstore by Gwanghwamun Station, subway line 5. Call (02) 730-6198.