Sake, Japan in a Glass
By Han Sang-hee
Staff Reporter
After a grueling day at work, Chang Yoo-won, 26, enjoys a small cup of ``sake,'' the Japanese traditional liquor, at a cozy ``izakaya,'' a sake bar, scattered around popular streets like Itaewon, Hongdae and the Cheongdam-dong area.
``I like it because it has lower alcohol level than traditional Korean liquor. Also due to the variety of tastes and even temperatures of the sake, it is easier to mix around depending on the dish you are eating. The different types of cups also makes the experience exciting,'' she told The Korea Times.
Korea boasts distinctive liquor from ``makgeolli,'' Korean rice beer, to ``soju,'' and many now have learned to appreciate wine. With the won weaker as ever and Japanese tourists flocking in Seoul's streets, how about taking a taste of Japan right here without having to fly out?
Frequently called the Japanese ``cheongju,'' or Korean rice wine, the clear sake is made with three basic ingredients: rice, water and alcohol, or yeast. Unlike wine, where the process naturally brings the sweetness without yeast, sake needs help.
Sake is made first by cleansing and polishing the main ingredient: rice. The type of sake differs depending on the amount of rice polished.
Then comes the process of ``resting,'' as this allows the rice to absorb moisture from the air. The rice is then soaked in water for a period of time, depending on what type of sake the maker is going for. Then the rice is finally boiled and mixed with rice inoculated into yeast and water. With different fermentation processes that eventually vary the type of sake, the final product is then pressed and is usually diluted with water to measure around 20 percent or 15 percent of alcohol before it is finally bottled.
``In Japan, visitors can find numerous izakaya where they can enjoy sake. For Japanese people, sake is part of their everyday lives. You don't have to eat skewered food, but also enjoy the drink with other dishes like `nabe,' or Japanese traditional steamboat dishes,'' Kim Sun-hee, a sake sommelier also known as a ``kikizakeshi'' from Japanese restaurant Momoyama at Lotte Hotel told The Korea Times.
Kim explained that in Japan, the sake experts recommend the liquor first and then offer specific dishes depending on the choice of sake.
Sake is basically categorized depending on how much the rice is polished. ``Honjozo'' polishes less than 30 percent, the ``daiginjo,'' 50 percent, while ``ginjo,'' 60 percent. ``Junmai'' is made only of rice and water, without adding alcoholic ingredients.
For beginners, it may be difficult to enjoy the smell of the yeast, so a more simple and light sake will work. ``Jozen Mizuno Gotoshi'' is a ginjo, but carries a bit of a sparkle along with a sweet scent, which is a favorite among women. The word itself means ``clean as flowing water.''
The next step would be trying the ``Hana Yuki Hime,'' which literally means ``snowflake bride.'' This one has a more fruity and floral scent.
For experts, Kim recommended the Kotsuzumi Rojohanaari, which is considered the best among all the other daiginjo.
``Personally, I think drinking sake cold is the best way to appreciate the overall taste and scent. It is also important to choose food that goes well with the drink. To be specific, try drinking the ginjo, daiginjo cold and the junmai and honjozo heated,'' Kim advised.
According to the Korea Customs Service, more Koreans are seeking sake, while Japanese alcohol lovers are consuming makgeolli. Makgeolli exports rose 53 percent in revenues last year, while sake imports saw a 64 percent jump, compared to the numbers in 2007. Major convenient stores and department stores here have also started to sell sake for those who want to enjoy the drink in a more practical way.
So why has sake become so popular among people?
``Wine is still considered the most popular, but we did see a jump in sake last year. As Japanese food like sashimi and rolls become popular, many visitors choose to drink sake, as it matches well with the food,'' Kenneth Cho, a sommelier at Japanese restaurant Namoo, W Seoul-Walkerhill, told The Korea Times.
He also added that sake is offered in various sizes, from 750 milliliters to smaller servings like in a ``tokuri,'' or a small porcelain bottle, and so many guests found it easy and simple to drink.
Cho explained another reason why it was accessible for customers, and also liquor experts like himself, to enjoy, and recommend sake.
``Like wine, sake is labeled. They differ depending on the locations and ingredients and this is the way of marketing sake, both historically and strategically. The percentage of polishing the rice and the water affects the overall taste and quality of sake and it is surprising to see how Japanese sake experts managed to standardize the liquor to this day,'' he said.
The turn to sake also contributes in the overall interest in health, not only Japanese culture.
``Many people do not drink strong liquor nowadays, and as the percentage of alcohol in sake is not that high compared to others, it is enjoyed by both men and women,'' Cho added.
According to experts, the best time to drink sake is when you want to become close with somebody. Unlike wine, where you can manage the amount and don't have to touch the bottle that often, sake is a more intimate drink.
``The tokuri are usually quite small and so you have to continuously follow the pace and see if others need more. If there is someone you would want to get closer with, sake would be a great choice,'' Kim said.
Many Koreans tend to think that drinking Japanese liquor is violating their patriotic tendencies. But it's more about learning a new culture. Sake is closely related to our own traditional liquor cheongju, so just think of it as learning,'' Kim said.
She also reminded that good sake is not determined by price.
``Don't attach yourself to the price. Instead, try drinking the same sake both cold and heated. I'm sure it would be a unique experience. Sake is a graceful drink, regardless of the price and place,'' Kim said.