Diwan-i-Am Offers Quality Indian Cuisine

By Seo Dong-shin

Staff Reporter

Earlier this year, those who frequent the small alleys dotted with clubs, bars, and cafes near Hongik University would shoot curious glances at a particular building under construction. Located inside one of those alleys, across from the Design Museum, a white building was taking on an odd shape: what was looming inside?

Last month, it turned out to be a brand-new Indian restaurant, named Diwan-i-Am, the building resembling a mosque or palace. The name of the restaurant derives from the Hall of Public Audiences presided over by rulers of the Mughal Empire in India.

Diwan-i-Am is aiming to be a little different from existing Indian restaurants in Seoul. The interior is by far the neatest among its peers here. A two-story building with a yet unfinished terrace, the restaurant has a cozy yet exotic atmosphere at the same time.

Four chefs in the kitchen are all from India, recruited from Marriott Hotels across India, a friendly and proud Korean manager tells us. Together with the Korean staff, an Indian chef attends to guests while we order, ready to offer helpful tips and explain ingredients. Perhaps it had to do with the fact that the restaurant was relatively empty despite it being dinnertime. Apparently, the reputation has yet to have spread.

The food taste is mainly catered to the palate of Western or Korean customers, generally only mildly spicy. There are set menus for two persons during lunch and dinnertime at 60,000 won and 80,000 won, respectively. It seemed a bit pricey so we decided to try individual items.

Before ordering from the menu, we are told to prepare our palate by eating thin sheets of papad _ roasted lentil tortilla that is crispy and spicy.

The menu offers an array of choices for Tandoori lovers _ Tandoori meaning food cooked over charcoal fire, various chicken and lamb dishes, fish and prawns. The prices range from 16,000 to 32,000 won.

After careful consideration we decided on murg malai tikka, or tender pieces of chicken marinated in cream cheese cooked in clay oven, priced at 18,000 won. Delivered to the table on a small metal stand under which an open flame heats the food, the boneless chicken pieces are tender and sweet yet spicy, served with slices of onion and tomato. They can be eaten alone, or along with curry and nan _ round flat bread, a traditional accompaniment to spicy Southeast Asian cuisine.