Kim Ji-soo joined The Korea Times in 2006, and worked on such desks as culture and politics and is currently a member of the Editorial Board. Previous workplaces include The Korea Herald and the Korea JoongAng Daily.
Lee Jong-ki dreams of making world-class product
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Master blender Lee Jong-ki
By Kim Ji-soo
By Kim Ji-soo
Omija ― the berry’s unusual name, vivid blood-red color and nutritional benefits conjures positive images of health and well-being. Also known by its scientific names maximowiczia typica and schisandra chinensis, it is widely used in summer drinks, tea and Oriental medicine.
But not many thought it could be made into wine or liquor, except for Lee Jong-ki.
Last week, master blender Lee introduced Gowoon Dar, a 52-percent-alcohol distilled liqueur made from omija.
“I feel confident about this product,” said Lee, 60, in an interview with The Korea Times, flashing his signature smile and the curiosity in his eyes that has got him so far in the local industry. “I used traditional Korean ingredients and world-class methods for fermenting, distilling, maturing and blending,” he said.
Among these steps, blending is the most crucial part.
“Blending is an art rather than a science,” said Lee, head of JL Co., consultant and professor. He is also known as Johnnie Lee. He said he draws from his five senses and more than three decades of experience in making sure the liqueur has allure in terms of flavor and fragrance and has high quality. The blender vowed that Gowoon Dar would not fall behind Johnny Walker Blue or Ballantine 30-year blended scotch whisky.
In the hour-and-a-half interview, Lee spoke ardently on blending. Asked what qualities makes one a leader in the field in Korea, he said: “I guess your sensual acumen may be sharper than others, and remembering the process of mixing different things and how they taste, i.e., the experience,” he said. But most of all, he said, “You should have curiosity.” Determination to experiment helps too.
After graduating as an agricultural chemistry major from Seoul National University, he started his career at OB Brewery in 1980, retiring in 2006 as a vice president at Diageo Korea. He’s known for adjusting the alcohol content of some brands of Diageo’s series for the Korean market.
Gowoon Dar, which roughly translates into “the beautiful moon,” is the culmination of his blood, sweat and tireless efforts since founding his omija wine production facility in Mungyeong, North Gyeongsang Province, in 2008. Both liqueurs ― the Gowoon Dar aged in ceramic containers and the Gowoon Dar aged in oak barrels ― are respectively translucent, and golden-tan, in color.
Omija liqueur Gowoon Dar / Courtesy of Lee Jong-ki
Gowoon Dar demonstrates a slightly exotic fragrance ― a harmony of fruity, herbal and spicy. At its launch ceremony, one attendee said Gowoon Dar oak was like whisky, while Gowoon Dar baekja was fruitier and perhaps may appeal more to women drinkers.
“I will say just this. China spent some 5,000 years to produce Maotai, while Lee took only three years to produce Gowoon Dar,” said Hans Lee, head of the Jell, one of the oldest wine shops in Seoul.
Lee firmly believes the liqueur will not be outdone by Johnny Walker Blue or Ballantine aged 30 years in terms of quality. He said he fermented the omija for one year and then distills it over three stages using his copper distilling equipment at Omynara, his winery in Mungyeong.
An embarrassing incident that gave rise to a dream
Lee said he had long wanted to create a premium traditional Korean alcoholic beverages that would be on par with the best in the world.
“I got my impetus in 1990 when I went to study at Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh,” Lee said. At that time, he and his 25 classmates from nearly 22 different nations studied brewing and distilling. His employer at that time, OB Seagram, sent him on the program as part of its efforts to foster homegrown enologists and as an acknowledgment of Lee’s 10 years of service. At the school, the students showed off their countries’ traditional alcoholic beverages, such as the Japanese sake and the French rose champagne. Lee, who considered himself already an expert, pulled out the Korean traditional ginseng liquor, only to hear his professor quip that Koreans do not necessarily distinguish between medicine and alcohol.
“My fellow students cracked up at the comment, and from that time, I vowed in my heart that I would create a world-class Korean alcohol,” he said.
In some ways, the embarrassing incident was a silver lining that led him to become a leader.
Lee recalled another embarrassing incident that prompted him to give up something that he loved ― writing. He had written and submitted a short novel, but it never got printed in the high school journal of the new principal.
Back at the Edinburgh school, Lee said the French rose sparkling wine presented by a French classmate inspired him to create the omija sparkling wine. After founding Omynara (www.omynara.com) in 2008, he succeeded in producing omija wine including the sparkling one in 2011.
The omija sparkling wine was selected for the dinner at the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit and as the official drink at the 2014 ITU Plenipotentiary Conference in Busan and at the 2015 World Water Forum in Daegu, North Gyeongsang Province.
Lee said he has tested virtually all types of ingredients. “Rice, barley, sorghum, persimmons, Korean pears,” Lee said. “In terms of medicinal ingredients, I’ve experimented with omija, gugija and bokbunja,” he said.
However in terms of color, fragrance and taste, nothing came close to omija, Lee said.
His maternal grandfather and paternal great-grandfather were both Oriental medicine doctors, which explains his familiarity and affinity for herbal ingredients. “I remember them growing omija and other herbal ingredients in the field,” the Jincheon, North Chungcheong Province native said.
After more than 30 years in the industry, he has taken some time to reflect on what the different alcohol drinks mean.
“The idea behind alcohol is that it symbolizes a decorum and that it’s an important medium of communication,” Lee said. “As they say, ‘in vino, veritas,’” he said.
To this end, he hopes to establish the highest possible recognition for Korea-produced alcoholic beverages.
This year, Lee said he can produce about 5,000 bottles of Gowoon Dar. Both Gowoon Dar baekja and Gowoon Dar oak are priced at 300,000 won for a 500-milliliter bottle. The brand is not the most affordable; Lee does not have plans for promotions, but he is considering selling it at duty-free shops.
He has ideas about making his Mungyeong facility as a model for the “sixth industry.” “This ‘sixth industry’ or value-added farming needs one of the three: a fine product, a fine artisan and a fine terroir or location,” said Lee, who was designated by the government as a “sixth industry person” in March. Quality is also a requisite in making people want to visit or experience a certain product or place.
Asked if he feels a sense of loss because Gowoon Dar at this time does not have a distinctive color, he said not to worry. “Either in fall or next year, I plan to introduce the King Yeongjo Omija Tea,” Lee said. “It will be called ‘tea’ but will actually be omija liqueur, in color and in taste,” he said, flashing his smile once again.