Oriental acne treatments
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By Lee Sung-hun
Acne is usually associated with teenagers hitting puberty, but nowadays many adults suffer from it too.
Visiting a dermatological clinic can help with symptoms, but the effects tend to be temporary. Some even resort to popular folk remedies, but sometimes these only result in adverse side effects or irritation.
Commonly, puberty-related acne in teenagers is caused by having too much heat from overabundant “yang-qi” (positive life energy) and the overproduction of sebum due to sex hormones that can cause inflammation under the skin.
Contrasting to that is adult acne which females are three times more likely to suffer from. Unrelated to sebum secretion, adult acne is usually caused by accumulated bodily waste from stress, drugs, oily food, smoking or menstruation. Most adult acne is of the inflammation type. It is generally concentrated around the U-zone area ― below the cheek bones, jaw and neck area ― where the skin layer is thin and blood circulation is slow.
Many people believe that acne gets worse during the summer because of the extra secretion of sebum, while it is more manageable in winter as less sebum is secreted.
However, there are a number of people who have concern because their acne gets worse in winter. The cold and dry winter air dries the skin layer and precipitates dead skin cells to block pores. The blocked pores are filled with sebum and they can cause infection. Also, scarves and turtle neck sweaters you wear to block the cold wind can irritate your skin to cause acne.
Generally, acne treatments involve cleansing pores blocked with sebum, and reducing sebaceous production. However, such treatments have only temporary effects and acne can recur after a while. For this reason, Oriental medicine aims to treat the heat in your body along with superficial treatment.
As stress turns into heat in our body, it rises to the top and concentrates around the face, stimulating the sebaceous glands that can result in acne outbreaks.
In addition, those suffering indigestion and irregular periods, all considered to have a cold stomach, have issues with circulation. This condition sees the “cold-qi” (cold body energy) accumulated in stomach area, and the heat then conversely concentrates around the face, causing acne.
Ultimately, controlling bodily heat is the right way to prevent acne. For such treatments, Oriental herbal medicine ― hanyak ― is prescribed.
Usually, hanyak for acne treatment is effective after three months of continuous application. Patients may not notice the medicines’ effects immediately, but after three months, most experience noticeable improvement.
One of the biggest concerns for acne patients are the red marks and scars left after treatment. Popping pimples with dirty fingernails can leave lasting scars, therefore patients are recommended to seek professional care at clinics.
At Oriental clinics, doctors use acupuncture needles to create thousands of tiny holes to promote the regeneration of the skin layer. Unlike a chemical peeling where a dead skin cell layer is removed chemically, Oriental treatment uses a treatment involving tiny acupuncture holes with herbs to generate a new skin layer to gradually remove the outer skin layer.
Daily care is important in acne treatments. As mentioned, those with indigestion and cold stomach problems are susceptible to skin irritation. So having balanced meals is crucial. Having regular meals is a starting point, and staying away from instant and fatty foods is advised.
Foods with a high Glycemic Index (GI) should be avoided also, while unprocessed grains, vegetables, seaweed and fibrous foods with low GIs are recommended.
Exposing the skin to the harmful UV rays can aggravate acne problems. Direct sunlight should be avoided, and those who already have acne should use oil-free sun blocks. Having proper sleep is also vital. Insufficient rest can cause stress which will aggravate acne. Having a good night’s sleep assists rejuvenating the skin layer.
Acne patients should use hypo-allergenic, non-comedogenic skin care products. Facial cleansing should be done up to twice a day with hypoallergenic products. Acne is usually produced in oily conditions with little moisture, and thus the appropriate amount of moisturizing is necessary.
The writer practices Korean Oriental medicine at the UN Oriental Medical Clinic in Hannam-dong, Seoul. He can be reached at sung_hun@naver.com.