Park Han-sol reports on Korea's financial regulators, along with fintech and insurance. She previously wrote about the art world, from biennales and exhibitions to fairs and auctions, with a focus on Seoul and the figures shaping the scene. Before joining The Korea Times, she spent a year at ABC News' Seoul bureau, contributing to coverage of major Asia-Pacific events.
Deoksu Palace, where Joseon and Western architecture meet
Dondeok Hall in Deoksu Palace, one of the five grand palaces of the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty / Courtesy of Korea Heritage Service
By Park Han-sol
“Though it doesn’t have ‘ondol’ floor heating, the bed is thick and high, so there’s not the slightest chill.”
So said King Gojong of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) in 1896, describing the bedroom he occupied at the Russian Legation during his brief refuge from encroaching Japanese power.
“These Western buildings are spacious and lofty. Once the cool air enters, it doesn’t escape easily,” he added, voicing a quiet appreciation for modern Western architecture, from brick walls and glass windows to elevated furniture.
Gojong’s experience likely left a lasting impression — one that would influence the design of Deoksu Palace upon his return, where he incorporated Western-style buildings into the royal grounds.
A new exhibition, “The Korean Empire’s Palace, Built in Western Architecture,” now on view at the palace’s Dondeok Hall, explores this transformation. It traces the emergence of distinct features in the Joseon palace as it was shaped by modern Western design following Korea’s opening to foreign trade in 1876.
This photo taken around 1902 shows Deoksu Palace grounds. Courtesy of Korea Heritage Service
Bricks, glass, steel and concrete offered far greater fire resistance than traditional Korean materials like wood and paper. This made them particularly well-suited for safeguarding royal treasures — portraits, seals and precious manuscripts — meeting a vital need for more secure archival spaces.
As the kingdom expanded its relations with the outside world, Western-style buildings like Dondeok Hall and Seokjo Hall also became primary venues for diplomatic receptions and banquets, as well as accommodations for foreign envoys.
Beyond the royal quarters, Western influence also took hold in the infrastructure across the palace grounds with the construction of facilities such as an electric power plant, viaduct and watchtowers.
Seokjo Hall in Deoksu Palace / Courtesy of Korea Heritage Service
These architectural transformations gradually brought changes to the daily lives of those who inhabited them.
Fireplaces and radiators began to replace the traditional “ondol” floor heating system, encouraging a shift toward raised beds, chairs and tables and marking a departure from the floor-centered patterns that had long defined Korean domestic life.
Jeonggwan Pavilion in Deoksu Palace / Korea Times photo by Park Han-sol
However, the Western-style structures within Deoksu Palace underwent significant changes and challenges during the period of Japanese colonial rule from 1910-45. During the 1920s and 30s, many buildings were demolished as the palace grounds were repurposed into a public park.
Dondeok Hall was torn down, Seokjo Hall became an art museum and Jeonggwan Pavilion — once a sacred space where royal portraits were painted and enshrined — was used for enjoying coffee and tea.
Even after Korea’s liberation from Japan, the sites of former buildings continued to serve as park facilities. It wasn’t until the 1990s that a full-scale restoration effort began to take shape. Most recently, Dondeok Hall was reconstructed in 2023, reclaiming its place within the legacy of the Joseon court.
“The Korean Empire’s Palace, Built in Western Architecture” runs through July 13.