Foreign chefs can help boost global popularity of Korean cuisine: experts

The Culinary Institute of America's professor of Asian culinary, Yang Jong-jip, speaks during the HANSIK Conference at Samcheonggak in Seoul, Friday. Courtesy of Hansik Promotion Institute

Foreign chefs should be the ones to take the initiative in promoting Korean cuisine to global audiences by introducing their unique interpretations of Korean food to their home countries and consumer markets, culinary industry experts said Friday.

This approach was advocated by participants at the HANSIK Conference, hosted in Seoul by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the Hansik Promotion Institute. "Hansik" means Korean food.

At the event, experts highlighted that traditional Korean "jang" — fermented bean-based sauces — can creatively enhance Western dishes, showcasing their potential for success in global markets.

Educating foreign chefs about Korean cuisine is essential for expanding its reach, according to chefs from the United States, Taiwan, Mexico and Korea.

Yang Jong-jip, an Asian culinary professor at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, has been teaching not only Korean recipes but also the history and culture behind them. He said that a surprisingly large number of students at one of the world's most renowned cooking schools are interested in Korean food.

"Out of 337 students, over 95 percent said they would be intrigued if the school introduced a new intensive course about Korean culture and cuisine. Almost 250 said they would register for the course. Considering that a single intensive class only admits 18, that's an incredible number," Yang said, citing a survey he had conducted. The school currently has four intensive courses — Mediterranean, Singaporean, Japanese and African diaspora.

Yang said that the students interested in Korean food were mostly driven by the Korean language. He said that teaching authentic cuisine should include the country's history, tradition and culture because it naturally motivates students to study Korean cuisine.

Guests at the HANSIK Conference taste various Korean "jang" (fermented sauces) and dishes made with the ingredient at Samcheonggak in Seoul, Friday. Courtesy of Hansik Promotion Institute

"For me, shaping the future of Korean gastronomy is like planting a root at the heart of the U.S.," Yang said. "My students absorb my lessons about Korea like a sponge. Imagine how incredible the impact would be if, after graduating, they introduce their own Korean-style dishes across the world."

Having foreign chefs cook Korean dishes reflects a contemporary culinary trend that has replaced "authenticity" with "diversity." Jimmy Lim, an owner-chef of JL Studio in Taiwan, said that chefs in his country are also serious about creating fusion dishes incorporating traditional and modern elements.

"Many chefs want to learn Taiwanese cuisine and apply it to their own styles," Lim said. "Tradition is important. But it also bridges to the modern language. It allows them to better understand the old and the new."

Mexican chef Jorge Vallejo who runs Quintonil in Mexico City supported the importance of national history in foods. "Our main goal is to share knowledge about Mexican history with our international guests. They want to learn on a deeper level," he said.

Jang can upgrade foreign chefs' ventures into Korean dishes in various ways, according to Kang Min-goo, the owner-chef of Mingles in Seoul, a Michelin two-star restaurant.

Like butter in France and olive oil in Italy, "doenjang" (soybean paste), "ganjang" (soy sauce) and "gochuhang" (red spicy pepper paste) add unique and versatile flavors to Western cuisines, he said.

"They make the food taste nuttier, sweeter, meatier and even flowerier. They also cover bitter, unpleasant raw tastes," Kang said, referring to his own creations such as ganjang-based glazed pecan, creme brulee with doenjang, chocolate with powdered gochujang and sweet barley bibimbap, or a bowl of steamed rice with mixed vegetables.

"Jangs can turn conventional Western dishes unique, mostly with desserts."