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Sat, August 15, 2020 | 05:38

Treasures along the Han River: Memorial placates the drowned

Treasures along the Han River: Memorial placates the drowned

Standing - almost forgotten - on the south bank of the Han River just below the Hangang Bridge is a monument that many cyclists ride by without even noticing. The handful of people who do stop are probably unaware of its past or its purpose.

2020-08-09 09:30

Feeling the heat: The luxury of ice in Joseon

Feeling the heat: The luxury of ice in Joseon

It is said that, as time passes, everything changes - unfortunately this is not true in regards to Seoul's oppressive summers. In the late 19th century, it wasn't uncommon for the more affluent residents of Seoul to abandon the city and seek relief in the mountains or along the coasts. Those who were left behind had to contend with, in addition to the heat, swarms of flies du...

2020-08-08 09:38

Views of Korea from an Englishman's Pen (Part 2)

Views of Korea from an Englishman's Pen (Part 2)

From his ideal location in Japan (Yokohama - the primary port), Wirgman seems to have found it amusing to watch the various Western powers seeking to establish treaties with Korea - especially the British.

2020-08-02 15:25

Views of Korea from an Englishman's pen (Part 1)

Views of Korea from an Englishman's pen (Part 1)

Views of Korea from an Englishman's pen (Part 1)

Charles Wirgman (1832-1891) is an unlikely witness of Korean history - especially considering, as far as I know, he never visited the country. But his view of the peninsula from afar is, nonetheless, interesting and entertaining.

2020-08-01 10:39

Views of Korea from an Englishman's Pen (Part 2)

Sleepless in Seoul in 1901: Placating the gods

Sleepless in Seoul in 1901: Placating the gods

For many Koreans, 1901 was a year filled with deficiencies. One of the most pressing was the lack of rain that many superstitious people thought was a sign of displeasure from the gods. In July, sacrifices were made throughout the country in hope of bringing the much-needed rain. Along the Han River, several bags of coins and a number of pigs were thrown into the water in hop...

2020-07-26 09:17

Sleepless in Seoul in 1901

Sleepless in Seoul in 1901

For the foreign residents of Seoul, particularly in the Jeongdong area, a good night's sleep was a rare commodity in 1901. Throughout the night, residents were incessantly attacked by ravenous bedbugs. This was not the first time, according to legend, that the city had been plagued with these insidious pests.

2020-07-25 11:01

The voyage of Two Brothers - Korea's first encounter with Americans (part two)

The voyage of Two Brothers - Korea's first encounter with Americans (part two)

Life aboard the Two Brothers became too unbearable for some of the crew and they decided to take their chances with the sea. It is not clear how, but soon Melville Kelsey (23), Thomas McGuire (21), David Barnes (20), and Edward Brailey (18) soon found themselves in one of the small wooden boats the whaler used to hunt down whales.

2020-07-19 13:58

Voyage of the Two Brothers - Korea's first encounter with Americans (part one)

Voyage of the Two Brothers - Korea's first encounter with Americans (part one)

On June 14, 1854, the schooner Two Brothers, a whaling ship, under the command of Captain John D. Childs, left its home port of New Bedford, Massachusetts, bound for the rich whaling grounds of the northern Pacific Ocean, and its brief footnote in Korean history.

2020-07-18 09:39

Cholera shock: Arrival of first American teachers (part 2)

Cholera shock: Arrival of first American teachers (part 2)

At dawn, on July 4, 1886, the first American teachers in Korea started their journey to Seoul. Of course, it started out in confusion. “Amid calling and shouting and with much bickering we secured sampans and were on our way to shore,” Annie Ellers recalled. “As we came nearer, we could see miles of what seemed mud flats. Arriving at the landing, we found some large stones la...

2020-07-12 09:42

Great Korean adventure: Arrival of first American teachers (part 1)

Great Korean adventure: Arrival of first American teachers (part 1)

On the sultry morning of July 3, 1886, the Tsuruga Maru, a Japanese steamship, sailed into Jemulpo (modern Incheon) harbor. Along with its normal cargo, it also had five Americans aboard: Messrs. Dalzell Bunker and Homer Hulbert; Miss Annie Ellers and Mr. and Mrs. George W. Gilmore.

2020-07-11 10:17

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