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| The Han River and its newest bridge in the late fall of 2021 Robert Neff Collection |
By Robert Neff
The Han River is the soul of Seoul. Its majestically divides the city into two parts ― the north side of the city, grittier but rich with history; and the south side, flashier, newer and wealthier. It was the highway through which goods ― rice and fuel ― were supplied to the city, and a line of defense during times of war.
But times have changed and it no longer serves those purposes.
Now the river is a sanctuary for residents of the city: a place to ride bicycles, picnic, watch the sunset, water ski, kayak, windsurf or just hold hands with that special someone while enjoying each other's company. Yet, even sanctuaries have their dangers ― at least they allegedly did in the past.
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| The tigers are gone but occasionally one still finds a wolf lurking about the river. This one was seen in Yeouido in the summer of 2021. Robert Neff Collection |
Wolves and tigers roamed the banks of the river ― hunting not only wild boars, deer and small mammals but also the occasional human. Sometimes these apex predators used the river to their advantage ― their lairs were on the south side of the river but they would swim across and hunt on the north side. Once they had their fill, they simply swam back to the safety of their dens. According to one American lawyer in the early 20th century, tigers would even occasionally leap into boats and snatch unwary travelers and sailors. Judging from some of his traveling-in-Korea anecdotes, I assume he was a better lawyer than he was a spinner of tales. He wasn't the only one to spin tales.
According to a French missionary in the late 1870s, he often heard Koreans "speak of a huge kind of lizard living in the rivers. It [was] fond of coming out on the banks to bask in the sun's rays." Of course, he never claimed to have seen one of these monsters nor could he remember what they were called in Korean as his notes and books were unavailable.
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| Bong Joon-ho's creature from "The Host" at Yeouido in the spring of 2015. Robert Neff Collection |
There were other denizens of the river's depths that were said to exist and were reported in the 20th century. In 1928, there were reports of a creature ― nearly two meters long ― seen swimming up and down the river. What became of this creature is unknown as it soon faded from the pages of the local press. Yet, amongst the residents, there was still talk of this creature ― albeit it was probably along the lines of a bogeyman used to scare children at night or as amusement around the campfire with a couple of bottles of alcohol.
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| The century-old memorial to the drowned beneath the Hangang Bridge (south side) in Seoul in March 2021. Robert Neff Collection |
Perhaps it was a mermaid or merman ― sans the fishtail. According to a correspondent in 1888 who apparently interviewed a number of Koreans:
"This 'man' is often seen nursing a baby exactly as a human being does. His hair is "so long," said one Corean, stretching his hands about three feet apart. He is sometimes shot and sometimes caught by fishermen on account of his much-prized hair. When this hair is cut off the poor merman or maid wails in the most heart-rending fashion, some even taking the loss so much to heart that they die of grief. No Corean has asserted to me that he has seen the animal, but no Corean is unable to describe him."
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| Do the tales of the Korean mermen/mermaids owe their origin to the occasional lost ocean denizen? Over the past couple of decades a couple of these little dolphins have been sighted in the river. This one is on display at Seonyudo Park, January 2023. Robert Neff Collection |
Not all that lurked within the river were alive. There are many tales of drowned swimmers who were allegedly the hapless victims of water ghosts ― the wandering spirits of those who met their deaths either through misadventure or deliberate acts of self-destruction. At least one memorial graces the banks of the river, a testimony to those who were lost and, perhaps, an effort to alleviate their "han" ― the deep sorrow and resentment associated with their deaths on the Han River.
Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.
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