1885: Year of the Monkey

An upper-class family in the late 19th or early 20th century Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

Korea, in the early months of 1885, was in turmoil. A failed coup attempt in December 1884 resulted in large numbers of Japanese and Chinese soldiers being encamped in Seoul and the surrounding region ― a conflict between these two countries on Korean soil was a real possibility. Blood was being spilled in the streets by the Korean authorities. Rebels were executed and their bodies left as graphic warnings to the public. It doesn't challenge the imagination to assume that many Koreans hoped the Lunar New Year (Feb. 15 that year) would bring desperately needed change and peace.

In his diary, Horace N. Allen, an American missionary and doctor, described the events surrounding the Lunar New Year holiday in 1885. Some of his observations were rather benign: "Just now the people are busy flying kites. Men and boys devote their time to this amusement and seem happy." Some of his other remarks were more caustic: "[The] city has put on a holiday attire ― If a collection of decayed straw stacks could be capable of such an act."

A small hardware shop in the early 20th century Robert Neff Collection

Just prior to the holiday, barter was unrestricted in the market (various guilds usually controlled it) and "all persons may sell whatever they have to offer. Consequently the big street is lined with markets most conspicuous among the good are the lots of brass work grouped together and brightly gleaming in the sun."

The brass items ― mainly candlesticks, spoons, chopsticks, bowls, basins and spittoons ― were "all nicely done but quite expensive." But the high prices weren't confined to brass goods. Cotton, a staple lining for Korean clothing, cost 50 cents a pound (450 grams) ― an outrageous price when compared to the prices (12 cents to 15 cents) in the northern states of the U.S. In the Korean market, silk sold for 40 cents a yard (90 centimeters) and was of poorer quality than the "sleazy summer silks" sold in the United States for 30 cents a yard.

The vegetables on sale were "a coarse tough lettuce" and "a hybrid between a radish and a turnip." Chickens and fish were sold for 20 cents each and beef, "enough for two dishes of soup," for 10 cents. Its origin was "usually a worn out bull who has happened to die or injure himself."

Perhaps the most expensive aspect of living in Seoul ― at least for Allen ― was keeping his house warm.

"Wood is expensive, it takes one horse load to warm one kan [a Korean measurement of space between two pillars] for a day. This costs 30c and a house costs $1.00 a day at least to be kept warm. The poor steal their wood, burn manure straw etc."

Exasperated by the rising prices, Allen added, "It is a wonder how these people live."

Wood merchants in Seoul in the late 19th or early 20th century Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection

The common people were not the only ones preparing for the event. A Korean official from the palace asked Allen for some hair oil for the king. Apparently, the official had first visited the American Legation but George C. Foulk ― the American representative ― couldn't provide any and suggested the official ask Allen.

"I had nothing but some common sweet oil," Allen wrote, but the Korean official "thought that would do well if I could flavor it. I had only cinnamon and peppermint oils. He fancied the peppermint and I put it in liberally. He went off happy and the Palace will be duly stunk up for the New Year, [with] a stink new to the [noses of the court]."

On New Year's Day, Allen and his wife, Fannie, decided to take advantage of the unusually quiet afternoon by walking down the city's main street to examine "the big curfew bell" at Jongno. He was impressed with the "bright clean gowns" of the people and delighted that the shops were all closed ― business suspended for the holiday.

Despite the festive atmosphere, there was an underlying fear amongst the handful of Westerners living in Seoul ― a fear that the Korean government also shared. When Allen and his wife walked to the bell, they were accompanied by six soldiers who were tasked with keeping "the crowd well back" from the Americans. Fortunately, there was no trouble that day, but there were scares over the next couple of weeks.

One night, Allen and his small family heard a loud commotion coming from the streets ― the sound of people shouting. He feared that it might be one of the greatest banes to the city's residents, a fire or, in light of recent events (even though he doesn't say it in his diary), another coup attempt.

Selling vegetables in the market in the early 20th century Robert Neff Collection

However, in the morning, he learned that it was not the sound of chaos and unrest but an attempt by children to appease or frighten away evil spirits. The children were seen carrying straw figures (cheung) ― "well made in intimation of a human figure" ― through the streets. These straw dolls were about two feet (a little over a half meter) long and were "stiff like an American scarecrow" with small Korean coins (known as cash) used as eyes.

People used these dolls to rid their households of malevolent spirits and bad luck. The ills that troubled the family were written down on a piece of paper and attached to the doll and thrown into the street. Anyone picking up the doll acquired the family's recorded miseries. The usual victims were innocent children who used the cash (the dolls' eyes) to buy nuts and other small treats.

While traveling from Jemulpo (modern Incheon) to Seoul, some sailors and officers from the American warship, U.S.S. Ossipee, witnessed a "barbarous celebration."

"It consisted in what seemed to them a sham battle with what they supposed were stuffed clubs, but I [Allen] learned today from [Prince Min Yong-ik's] interpreter that they fought in earnest and that ten were killed, that it is an annual game engaged in by 'low fellows' but I could find out nothing more or the Prince commanded the interpreter to say no more about it, as it was a bad thing."

He added that these violent displays took place "at various places, and there are always some of the combatants killed."

The most important New Year celebration was Dari-bapgi (bridge-walking) which took place on the night of the first full moon (15th day of the first lunar month). People throughout the capital region walked over the bridges spanning "the main sewer or creek" [Cheonggye Stream] that bisected the city. In explanation, Allen wrote, "The object is to prevent having disease of their legs during the coming year."

Yet, despite the various precautions taken to placate or scare away malevolent spirits, 1885 ― the Year of the Monkey ― was not a good year. Unrest plagued Korea as foreign powers vied with one another for dominance on the peninsula. Korea even lost an island group ― temporarily ― to a foreign friendly power. That, however, is a story for another time.

My appreciation to Diane Nars for her assistance and allowing me to use some of her images.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.