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| Host Joe McPherson of the "Dark Side of Seoul" tour explains stories relating to Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul. / Photo by John Redmond |
By John Redmond
Seoul is no stranger when it comes to offering visitors and residents a plethora of tours taking in the capital's popular and historical sites and districts.
These include food, alcohol, shopping, medical and even K-Pop and K-Drama hallyu tours aimed at fans of everything Korean.
In a slightly different vein, a unique walking circuit offers an alternative perspective on some of Seoul's historical sites and their not so family-friendly backgrounds.
Welcome to the "Dark Side of Seoul" nighttime walking tours of some of the city's most notorious buildings with tour leaders providing backgrounds into some of the nation's deepest historical and family secrets.
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| Foreign students on the "Dark Side of Seoul" tour in downtown Seoul's hanok restaurant district. / Photo by John Redmond |
Presented by ZenKimci tour, the regular and extended walks feature visits to historic sites, government buildings, restaurant districts, Japanese occupation sites and plenty of stories of ghosts and murder.
"This is the side of Seoul that you won't find in the tourism brochures," says tour leader Joe McPherson.
"Take a walking tour down the dark alleys of the forgotten 600-year history of bloody massacres, seedy hideaways and mourning ghosts."
Stops on the regular excursion include the site of a gruesome massacre, a bridge whose stones tell a dark story that lovers and passersby know nothing about and a neighborhood known to be occupied by the spirits of prostitutes who met grisly ends.
Along the way, group leaders tell tales of Seoul's famous ghosts and murderers, weird and surprising landmarks, and the ancient city's scandalous secrets.
The extended tour includes a palace said to be so haunted that the famous Queen Min refused to spend the night there.?
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| Detail of the brickwork at Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul, home to dark secrets of the city's past. / Photo by John Redmond |
Other highlights include passing by Seoul's most haunted building, the tale of Korea's most notorious serial killer and a street crowded with so many ghosts that people say you cannot take a clear picture at night.
A special tour highlight includes host McPherson explaining, "On the banks of the Cheonggyecheon Stream, one method of torture and execution was boiling people to death."
Clairvoyants on the walks have reported sensing paranormal activity at certain locations.
Guests will receive an ancient remedy for protection from Japanese ghosts.?
The Korea Times took an extended tour and spoke with ZenKimchi founding editor and president?at Korea Food Tours, Joe McPherson about his inspiration and the walks.
Q: What inspired you to put the tours together?
A: I studied Korean history in university, and I really got into it. When I moved to Korea and started going to historic sites, I was disappointed at how sterile the descriptions of these places were. There were none of the stories that made them interesting. The plaques just stated the dimensions of the buildings and when they were built.
Boring.
It was out of this frustration and inspiration from the Jack the Ripper walks in London that I put together the Dark Side of Seoul Tour. I wanted people to get a deeper appreciation of Seoul through its rich dark history.
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| Participants on the "Dark Side of Seoul" tours comprise mostly foreigners. People listen to group leader Joe McPherson explaining about the darker elements of the Nagwon district in downtown Seoul. / Photo by John Redmond |
Q: Have the excursions evolved since the early days?
A: They have changed quite a lot. There are a lot more stories and surprises. We keep adding more and improving it. We work regularly with Korean historians for more content and to make sure our content is accurate, despite my tendency to exaggerate for dramatic effect.
The regular tour takes 90 minutes and the extended one takes two hours and 30 minutes.
All walks begin at 8 p.m. from either Anguk or Seodaemun stations every day except Monday and Wednesday.
The extended circuit is highly recommended with some bonus European modern history thrown into the bargain.
There are two group leaders who take slightly different routes.
Individual walks cost between 37,000 won and 42,000 won with group discounts available.
Because these are not a food tours, there will be an opportunity to buy refreshments and to take bathroom breaks.
"Children under 18 are advised not to participate because the tours involve violent stories, sex jokes, and foul-mouthed tour guides," states the webpage.
The language spoken is English with some Korean translations.
For more information, visit the www.darksideofseoul.com or the Dark Side of Seoul Facebook page.
