By Bernard Rowan
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I'm writing now because I've learned more about this special place. While not a forested environ as much as an extended historical zone, and with a tourist feel, Gyeongju is perhaps Korea's best-preserved old city It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and popular place for Koreans and foreigners Named a national park, Gyeongju is a Mecca and portal to Korean civilization.
Gyeongju links Korea to its Silla past, one of the several great kingdoms (with Goguryo and Baekje) that denominate its civilization and its traditions. When we think about great figures of Korea's past, kings and scholars such as Choe Chi-won, many represented Silla. When we think about the development of Korean Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism, we can learn from visiting Gyeongju, museums, building, and memorials. Just think of this ferment of intellect and humanistic power! Three of the universe's greatest philosophical movements received and incorporated. Gyeongju is a window representing human flourishing and development on par with any place on earth!
Today's Korean leaders occupying roles in business, government and society don't remind us directly of the hwarang (young elites), but they represent them. I've admired and continue to admire the traditional respect Korean society gives learning as the basis for entry to business, government and leadership. Legions of Korean men and women carry on the Silla idea of the scholar-bureaucrat. The wonderful universities and colleges of South Korea reflect the enduring commitment and dedication to proved learning as the basis for merit.
Whether religious or not, a visit to Bulguksa and Seokguram is a must. I'll never forget a monk coming to talk to me at Bulguksa in fall. He challenged me to self-awareness and didn't let our cultural difference prevent a real conversation. The beautiful bridges, statues of Buddha, stone pagoda memorials, and stupas stand as lasting evidence of Silla's flourishing and height. The largest Korean Buddhist order, Jogye, takes Bulguksa as her center.
Park Chung-hee should receive credit for restoring and preserving countless old Korean buildings, including Bulguksa. After the ravages of Mongols, Japanese, and even the North Korean army, his administration didn't let this place continue in ruin.
For a great survey of what Gyeongju has to offer, visit the Gyeongju National Museum. A nice respite can be had in Anapji Pond, which memorializes Unified Silla and has undergone several recent improvements adding to its beauty. Cheomseongdae may not look like a world-class astronomical observatory, but that's what it amounts to.
Also, travel to the coast and enjoy the wonderful seafood that's seasonally available. The joy of a ssanbap table with many side dishes and fresh fish is just so satisfying. Sample and savor some of the local fare!
You'd do best to have a car, or perhaps a motorbike or bicycle, as the sites stand over a wide range of interesting places. Summer is likely the busiest time. The spring and fall views are memorable! Gyeongsang gentlemen have a machismo that may appear impressive to off-putting. Many of my early impressions of ajumma arose through my visits to this part of Korea. My point is to anticipate and respect the provincial contours of the experience, including the charm of people.
Gyeongju truly is for us all. It's a singular way to begin or continue to learn about Korea in all its contributions and wonder!
Bernard Rowan (browan10@yahoo.com) is associate provost for contract administration and professor of political science at Chicago State University. He is a past fellow of the Korea Foundation and former visiting professor at Hanyang University.
