By Bernard Rowan
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Dongdongju is a fermented rice drink. It's typically served cold and in bowls. The name stems from the floating rice grains in the drink. I liked the italki.com answer provided by Park Joo-sung. It means "floating ant drink." Compared with makgeolli, it's going to taste more viscous. It's a tasty, fun drink to enjoy with friends. It goes well with many foods, and not just pajeon, the wonderful and savory pancakes found in restaurants and bars as appetizers.
Dongdongju's viscosity reflects its ingredients. I've read that dongdongju comes from yeast, nonglutinous rice and wheat powder. That's why it's thicker. Like makgeolli, there can be different forms of the drink depending on its constituent ingredients: rice, pumpkin, corn, ginseng, millet, deodeok, and other local varieties.
There likely remains a wonderful restaurant near the gate of the University of Seoul that serves this drink. I've enjoyed many good meals with it. On a hot day, it's thirst-quenching. One does need another bowl! Dongdongju is to my mind an unfiltered form of makgeolli, strengthened by the presence of ingredients to make it a heartier drink. I'm a fan of hard apple cider, which nowadays also comes in unfiltered varieties. Makgeolli looks strained and filtered into what could pass for skim milk. Dongdongju keeps a hearty and cloudier appearance.
Many Americans and others find kimchi an acquired taste. I find that it's better taken with other food, as in part of ssam (lettuce wrap) or consumed with dongdongju. The tastes complement each other.
I don't know what to make of the Korean Wine website that uses dongdongju and makgeolli as synonyms. The site gives users a recipe for making the drink. Another good site, Korean Folk Villages, praises a version of dongdongju named Gyeonggi Province's Intangible Cultural Asset #2, KFV chapsal dongdongju. I'm not sure it'll stand up as "characteristically free from hangover."
Another discussion of the topic online in English comes from an organization called the Libation Association of Northern Maryland. Its article on dongdongju is brief but comprehensive, including techniques for making the drink and makgeolli. It points out dongdongju's stronger alcohol content. I don't think this drink qualifies as a beer though. Maybe a stout in some sense, but that's a misnomer. I don't think it's right either to call dongdongju a version of makgeolli.
I'll repeat my advice that drinking is the best part of a meal and enjoyed with others. Lonely imbibing isn't a sin, but it tends away from the joy of a proper meal with friends or colleagues. My understanding of Korean dining is its connection with socialization. Even if thirsty, don't gulp down the dongdongju. It'll induce the wobblies and the hangover. Enjoy an urban setting with friends. Take time from the hectic pace of life in present-day Korea. Or enjoy a day trip to a rural, restful place. Rest awhile. Leisure means slowing down. It improves digestion.
Of course, in the pantheon of Korean drinks, dongdongju doesn't rank No.1. Soju, beer, scotch and makgeolli have more adherents. That's fine. After all, variety is part of life's spice, even for those enjoying alcohol. But, dongdongju is the unheralded king of drinks! Try some and enjoy!
Bernard Rowan (browan10@yahoo.com) is associate provost for contract administration and professor of political science at Chicago State University. He is a past fellow of the Korea Foundation and former visiting professor at Hanyang University.
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