10 months after tragedy, Itaewon's recovery inches along

A street in Itaewon, Seoul, bustles with people, Sept. 1. Korea Times photo by Jung Da-hyun

Some stores see customers return, while others continue to struggle

By Jung Da-hyun

Approximately 10 months after the tragic Halloween crowd crush that claimed 159 lives, there are, once again, visible green shoots growing in Itaewon, one of the main nightlife districts in Seoul, which had been struggling to attract visitors.

However, the extent of the recovery, boosted by various projects to revive the district, is a contrasting story, depending on the type of business.

On a recent Friday night, the streets of Itaewon came alive with bar staff promoting their establishments in an alley behind the Hamilton Hotel, which is near the location of the deadly accident. The streets were filled with loud music and visitors, while foreign tourists could be seen walking around and capturing the lively scene on their phones.

According to a report in July, by the Ministry of SMEs and Startups, sales of Itaewon shops recovered to approximately 85 percent of pre-crowd-crush levels, signaling a positive shift.

In addition, the average number of visitors to Itaewon per week in May, the latest available figure, stood at 75.6 percent compared to that of the fourth week of October last year, which was one week before the tragedy, based on telecom operator KT's statistics.

A poster promoting a discount voucher is placed on the wall of a restaurant in Itaewon, Seoul, Aug. 29. Korea Times photo by Jung Da-hyun

As part of efforts to entice people back to Itaewon and revive businesses in the area, the Yongsan-gu Office introduced vouchers in March. The vouchers, used as cash, provided customers with a 20 percent discount at local businesses in the district.

“The vouchers once accounted for nearly 30 percent of total sales,” said a staff member surnamed Han at a Mexican restaurant near the Hamilton Hotel.

Among the standout beneficiaries of this recovery initiative were liquor stores.

“A lot of the customers were people visiting Seoul from out of town to purchase liquor at discounted prices using the vouchers,” the owner of one liquor store said.

These vouchers have also attracted people to restaurants and shops in Itaewon. Even five months after the voucher scheme began, a large number of customers still ask some stores about the availability of the discount coupons.

A store with a "for rent" sign is seen near Exit 1 of Itaewon Station, Seoul, Aug. 29. Korea Times photo by Jung Da-hyun

While some storeowners are relieved to see customers return, there are still many empty shops adorned with “for rent” signs, highlighting the multifaceted nature of the recovery following the tragic event.

One bar right behind Hamilton Hotel had only three out of 15 tables filled on Friday night, while another bar next door had a queue of people waiting to get in.

“The bars or restaurants that used to draw large crowds have recovered faster, while newly opened stores like ours still struggle to attract customers,” said a manager of a nearly empty bar.

Some merchants who sell clothes and accessories also did not agree with the government's announcement of an 85-percent sales recovery in the area.

“We had zero sales four days a week over the last month,” said the owner of a store selling glasses.

For example, a clothing store located at the entrance of an alley has seen a 25-percent decline in sales compared to the COVID-19 pandemic era. The owner said the drop in sales had worsened since the crowd crush last Halloween.

A banner with the phrase “Safety Itaewon” hangs on the building of the Itaewon Special Tourism Zone Association in Itaewon, Seoul, to promote volunteer patrols, Aug. 29. Korea Times photo by Jung Da-hyun

In order to dispel lingering concerns over public safety, the Itaewon Special Tourism Zone Association, a regional group of merchants, is also focused on making Seoul's popular nightlife district a better and safer place.

Merchants in Itaewon are set to embark on volunteer patrols. This proactive approach, aimed at preventing accidents and maintaining a secure atmosphere, aims to convey the message that Itaewon is a safe place to visit.

“Beyond accident prevention, such initiatives can play a pivotal role in shaping tourists' perceptions and drawing people to come here, reigniting the district's former allure,” Yoo Tae-hyuk, the chairman of the association, said.

Within this month, merchants, divided into three groups, plan to begin patrolling Itaewon World Food and Culture Street and Quino Street from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. Those two streets are the most-popular areas of Itaewon among tourists and draw the biggest crowds.