[TEMPLE ADVENTURES] Stone lions at Hwaeom Temple

The four-lion three-story stone pagoda at Hwaeom Temple / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

By Dale Quarrington

It's not every day that you're in awe of a building or even a stone structure, but it's not every day that you visit Hwaeom Temple. From the Iljumun at the entrance to the three-story stone pagoda up the hillside, and all of the Treasures and National Treasures in between, there is something to amaze the senses at every turn. Hwaeom is home to an impressive four of the latter and seven of the former.

The temple is located in scenic Gurye, South Jeolla Province, in the southwestern section of Jirisan National Park. Hwaeom means "Flower Garland" in English, and the name of the temple is in reference to the Flower Garland Sutra, known as the "Hwaeom-gyeong" in Korean. The temple was first founded in 544 A.D. by the monk Yeongi-josa, who's believed to have come from India. The temple was later expanded in 643 A.D. by the famed monk Jajang-yulsa (590-648). Most of the temple's renowned stone artifacts date back to this time period and up to the ninth century.

Throughout the years, Hwaeom Temple has undergone numerous renovations and rebuilds. However, in 1593, most of the temple shrine halls were completely destroyed by fire during the 1592-98 Imjin War. After the war, and from 1630 to 1636, Hwaeom Temple was rebuilt. Then by 1701, during the long reign of King Sukjong of Joseon (r. 1674-1720), the reconstruction of Hwaeom Temple was completed which included most of the temple shrine halls we see today.

The lion pagoda at the Wontong-jeon / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Of this large collection of beautiful historic stone monuments and architectural marvels, there are three in particular that stand out in my mind. The first of these is the lion pagoda at Wontong-jeon Hall. This uniquely designed pagoda, which is Treasure No. 300, is believed to have first been built around the ninth century ― but the exact date is unknown. This pagoda is typically called "noju," which means "stone pillar" in English. The reason for this dual name is that the exact purpose of the stone structure isn't exactly known. It's presumed to have been used either as a reliquary for sarira (crystalized remains) or for holding memorial services around it. As for its overall design, the pagoda has four lion statues perched atop lotus relief designs. On the heads of the four lions rests a square stone chamber, where it's presumed that the sarira are housed. Conspicuously absent is a finial that traditionally adorns the top of a Korean Buddhist pagoda. But whether the stone structure is in fact a pagoda or a stone reliquary, it is a remarkable example of Buddhist artistry in Korea.

The lion pagoda is backed by the historic Gakhwang-jeon, which means "Enlightened Emperor Hall" in English. The Gakhwang-jeon replaced the equally massive Jangnyuk-jeon that had been destroyed in 1593. Attempts to rebuild the Jangnyuk-jeon started in 1630, but the costs of rebuilding the former hall were prohibitive at the time, especially after such a devastating war. Then from 1699 to 1702, the Gakhwang-jeon was built in the Jangnyuk-jeon's place upon its former stony structural foundations dating back to the Unified Silla era (668-935). The majority of the newly built Gakhwang-jeon's funding came from Lady Hwagyeong, a consort to King Sukjong of Joseon (r. 1674-1720) to help gain political, rather than religious, favor in the region for her son Prince Yeoning who would become King Yeongjo of Joseon (r. 1724-1776).

The massive Gakhwang-jeon / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

According to the ridge beam scroll, or "sangnyangmun" in Korean, inside the Gakhwang-jeon, it took some 45 draftsmen, as well as over 3,000 monks from the Righteous Monk Army that had mobilized in the surrounding area to provide manual labor, to complete the awesome task of finishing the massive two-story structure. Also, 150 monks from Hwaeom Temple were used to complete the shrine hall.

The construction was completed in 1702, and the exterior was once adorned with beautiful "dancheong" (temple colors) including lotus flowers, peonies and lilies paintings. However, the exterior dancheong has nearly faded over the centuries that have passed from its initial construction. Stepping inside the cavernous interior of the Gakhwang-jeon, you'll find a single open space interior with a large main altar housing seven statues. Of these, there are three larger seated Buddha statues and four additional standing Bodhisattva statues. These altar statues were completed in 1703. Throughout the years, the Gakhwang-jeon has been repaired numerous times including in 1768, 1847, 1851, 1860, 1885, and 1936-41. And since Korea's liberation, the shrine hall has undergone an additional eight repairs including after a recent survey. The Gakhwang-jeon is National Treasure No. 67.

Arguably the most beautiful and intriguing feature of Hwaeom Temple is the four-lion three-story stone pagoda, which is located up 108 uneven stairs behind the Gakhwang-jeon on the hillside. Featured in its first story are doors in all four directions with the Four Heavenly Kings, Brahma, Indra and Bodhisattvas protecting these four doors in pairs. At the base of the pagoda are four lions which are meant to represent the four human emotions of anger, joy, sorrow and love. At the center of the pagoda is a stone image. And out in front of the pagoda, kneeling out of respect sits another stone figure underneath an equally unique stone lantern placed upon pillars. It's believed that the monk that stands with hands clasped together inside the base of the pagoda is the mother of Yeongi, the founding monk, while the statue of the monk underneath the stone lantern in front of the pagoda is believed to represent Yeongi. The pagoda is believed to date back to the seventh to mid-eighth century. Additionally, the pagoda is National Treasure No. 35. But from 2016 to 2021, the pagoda was off-limits to visitors, as it was being repaired for structural reasons. Now that it's been reopened to the public, the shrubbery has been cleared away, and the pagoda now enjoys a commanding view of the entire Hwaeom Temple grounds.

The four-lion three-story stone pagoda / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Hwaeom Temple, inside the southern boundaries of Jirisan National Park, is one of the most beautifully situated temples in all of Korea. Adding to all of this natural beauty are the artistic and architectural endeavors and achievements of Korean Buddhists. Simply put, Hwaeom Temple is a star attraction among the thousands of Buddhist temples in all of Korea.

Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published three books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the popular website, "Dale's Korean Temple Adventures."