[TEMPLE ADVENTURES] Rare close-up access to Seokguram Grotto

A look through the glass barrier at the Buddha statue in Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

By Dale Quarrington

A line had already formed when I first arrived, snaking its way out towards the concrete stairs at the entry. The sliding metal fence was removed at 6:10 a.m. sharp, and the families that initially formed the ever-expanding line went bounding down the dirt trail led by their children. At the end of this mountainous trail, and up a set of uneven stairs, is the nearly indistinguishable mound that protrudes slightly out from the side of the mountain. And beneath this unassuming mound are hundreds of stones that form the world-famous Seokguram Grotto.

The beauty and scope of the artistry and architecture at Seokguram Grotto is unsurpassed in Korean Buddhism. And for just one day ― and one day only ― the protective glass barrier at the grotto is moved aside to welcome visitors to the Silla-era stone masterpiece atop Mount Toham in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province. This past Buddha's Birthday, this writer was one among the thousands to explore the unsurpassed depths of Silla skill and ingenuity.

Construction on Seokguram Grotto began in 751 by Kim Daeseong (700-774), a chief minister of Silla. The grotto was completed in 774 by the Silla court shortly after Kim's death. According to the Samguk Yusa, or Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms in English, Seokguram Grotto and neighboring Bulguk Temple were built to honor two sets of Kim Daeseong's parents. Seokguram Grotto was built to honor Kim's parents from his former life, while Bulguk Temple was built to honor Kim's parents from his present life.

Seokguram Grotto follows the Indian tradition of carving images of the Buddha on stones, natural caves, steep mountainsides and stupas. This tradition, as Buddhism migrated eastward, was practiced in China and then in Korea. However, because of the geological makeup of the Korean Peninsula, which contains an abundance of hard granite, both mountain carvings and cave images were extremely difficult to create. With all this in mind, Seokguram Grotto is an artificial cave.

Throughout the years, Seokguram Hermitage has undergone numerous repairs. Eventually, it fell into disrepair largely as a result of the oppressive Confucian-oriented policies of the 1392-1910 Joseon Kingdom towards Korean Buddhism. Except for some locals who probably kept visiting, Seokguram Grotto was largely forgotten until 1909, when a traveling Japanese postman found it.

Outside Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Eventually, word got back to the Japanese authorities in Seoul. That same year, Resident-General Sone Arasuke (1849-1910) paid a highly publicized official visit. Archaeologically and architecturally, the grotto was investigated by Japanese authorities led by Dr. Sekino Tadashi (1868-1935). In a 1910 report, Sekino expressed concern that rainwater was washing silt down from the mountain which was causing the front arch capstones to collapse. As a result, he said the seated central Buddha figure was being exposed to the elements.

Through Sekino's report, and the Japanese colonial government's need and want to use tourism and Buddhism as a way to help assimilate Koreans into the Japanese empire, this led to several reconstruction projects on the Seokguram Grotto that took place over 16 years starting in 1913 and ending in 1928. In fact, the Japanese authorities were completely amazed by Seokguram Grotto. After its initial cleaning and thorough dismantling, it was hoped that the grotto would be shipped to Seoul with the intention of eventually exporting it Japan. Fortunately, this attempt was thwarted by local officials.

The first of these repairs lasted from 1913 to 1915 and focused on the cleaning of the grotto and stabilizing the structure. The way they stabilized the structure was by encasing it in concrete, which was the most advanced technology at the time. Unfortunately, this led to humidity building up in the grotto. So a second round of repairs took place starting in 1917 when drainage pipes were added to remove rainwater from around the structure. Despite these efforts, a third round of repairs was conducted on Seokguram Grotto from 1920 to 1923, when waterproof asphalt was added to the surface of the concrete. Unsurprisingly, this only worsened the problem. So in 1927 and 1928, the Japanese did the now unthinkable when they sprayed the surfaces and sculptures inside the grotto with hot steam to blast away the moss and mold that had accumulated inside.

Prayer time at Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

After liberation in 1945 and in the 1960s, President Park Chung-hee ordered a major restoration project on Seokguram Grotto. The problem of temperature and humidity caused by Japanese reconstruction projects had led to a buildup of humidity in the grotto. The Korean restoration project led to the past problem being resolved by using mechanical systems. It was also at this time that a wooden superstructure was built over the antechamber. This remains a hot topic of debate by many historians who believe the grotto originally did not have such a structure blocking the view of the sunrise over the sea, and subsequently cutting off the air flow into the grotto. It was also around this time that the glass barrier was placed in front of the antechamber to protect it from both humidity and visitors. And it was beyond this barrier, for one day only, that I was able to visit the inner recesses of Seokguram Grotto. For many visitors, being limited to view the grotto through the glass partition can be a bit disappointing, so that's why I was so interested in going beyond this barrier.

When stepping inside Seokguram Grotto, it appears both much larger and smaller than I had previously expected. The small size of the grotto implies that it was originally used exclusively by Silla royalty. And while the grotto is small in its overall dimensions, the reliefs and statues are much larger than I had previously anticipated.

Looking up at hte Buddha statue from inside Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Joseph Bengivenni

The antechamber, which houses large stone reliefs of the Palbu-jung (Eight Legions), are a group of Buddhist deities that are meant to protect the Dharma (Buddha's teachings). This antechamber is meant to represent the earth. There is then a narrow passageway that leads visitors into the inner chamber of the grotto. This narrow passageway is fronted by two fierce stone reliefs of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). As for the narrow passageway itself, you'll find the Sacheonwang (The Four Heavenly Kings), who, like the Eight Legions, are meant to protect the Dharma. This passageway is meant to act as a symbolic conduit between the earthly and the heavenly.

Finally stepping inside the inner chamber, you'll find resting in the center of the rotunda a statue of the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is 3.5 meters in height, and it sits upon a 1.34-meter-tall lotus pedestal. Before the wooden structure was built in front of the grotto, this granite image of Seokgamoni-bul would have looked serenely down the valley and out across the East Sea. This central image is surrounded in the rotunda by larger relief-carvings and smaller niche relief-carvings. The upper niche relief-carvings are dedicated to various Bodhisattvas, while the lower ones are dedicated to 10 Nahan (Historical Disciples of the Buddha), as well as Beomcheon (Brahma) and Jeseok (Indra).

But of all the stone reliefs inside the rotunda, it's the partially hidden relief of the eleven-headed Gwanseeum-bosal (Bodhisattva of Compassion) that stands out. This relief stands 2.18 meters in height, and it gracefully holds a vase containing a lotus blossom. This ancient relief-carving is only second in Korea to the serene statue of the Buddha in front of it. Unfortunately, very few people get to see it because it's well-hidden behind the imposing image of the Buddha out in front of it.

The relief of the Bodhisattva of Compassion at Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Joseph Bengivenni

The overall interior of Seokguram Grotto beyond the glass barrier is awe-inspiring. Up close, the artistry and architecture inside the grotto is beyond imagination. They are even more impressive the closer you get to them, so it's no wonder that Seokguram Grotto is both a National Treasure and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So despite the crowds, anyone and everyone that is able should take the opportunity to explore the inner recesses of the Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju next Buddha's Birthday.

Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published three books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the website, Dale's Korean Temple Adventures.