[RAS Korea] Self-guided audio tours to escape pandemic restrictions on tourism

Daehanmun, the main gate of Deoksu Palace / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

By Steven L. Shields

With the summer heat beginning to fade but social distancing still in place, there is no better time to enjoy a new walking tour with Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) Korea. RAS Korea's first-ever downloadable MP3-based audio tour is just the ticket for a pleasant early evening walk or a lunch-time break in downtown Seoul.

RAS Korea began its cultural excursions program in the years following the end of the 1950-53 Korean War. The country saw a massive influx of expatriates, most affiliated with the U.S. military presence. These newcomers were curious. They wanted to explore the rich heritage of their temporary home. At the time, the road network was not well-developed, and self-guided touring was not practical.

With many longtime members who had lived in Korea since the early years of the 20th century, RAS Korea brought knowledgeable guides together with eager explorers. Most of RAS Korea's guides were multilingual. Many, such as the late Dr. Horace G. Underwood (b. 1917), several-time president of RAS Korea, were raised in Korea. He once bragged that he began driving his father's car around Seoul when he was but 12 years old, often asked to escort Yonsei University visitors and patrons to the various historical sites around the city.

In the 1960s and 1970s, RAS Korea was just about the only organization offering tours and cultural excursions in Korea. In fact, for several years, RAS Korea had a special train car provided by the Korea National Railway system (now KORAIL). Before highways made tour buses practical, many of RAS Korea's early excursions were by train. Members and friends could be whisked out of the city to some of Korea's most distant corners, where the pristine beauty of an undeveloped countryside could be enjoyed.

After the magnificent expressway opened in the mid-1970s, "highway" buses became readily available. Through the 1980s and 1990s and into the 21st century, RAS Korea filled buses each weekend and headed out on the road. Tours went to Cheorwon, Gangneung, Mount Songni and Gyeongju. The springtime tours to Jinhae (now part of Changwon) to see the cherry blossoms were always a huge hit. Autumn tours to the east coast and Gangneung for the changing colors of the leaves were met with great expectation. Faraway temples, nestled in gorgeous mountain valleys, were lovely day-long getaways for many. Christmas shopping with the former RAS Korea manager, Mrs. Bae Sue-ja, always had crowds of people following her through the various marketplaces of Seoul. She also led groups to places where they could try their hands at making kimchi and other Korean dishes.

The stone wall walkway next to Deoksu Palace / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

In more recent years, RAS Korea has focused on walking tours in the city and its environs. With the regional public transport system so well-developed and economically priced, members and friends can easily spend a weekend afternoon touring some of the country's most fascinating places with a local expert as a guide. RAS Korea is blessed to have local experts among the Korean community as well as long-term expatriates. Many are trained professionals willing to share their knowledge; some are aficionados who love Korea and its culture.

The late Peter Bartholomew, famous in Korea as the "Hanok Protector," had several routes in some of the oldest parts of Seoul where he would regale travelers with tales of the kings of Korea and the Japanese occupation. He loved the old architecture and the intrigues of the royal court.

Peter Bartholomew welcomes guests to his hanok home in northeastern Seoul in 2016. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Robert Fouser, another longtime RAS Korea member and a professionally trained linguist and architecture enthusiast, has led many walking tours through some of the older neighborhoods, including the area near Seoul Station. He's ferreted out historic sites that most did not know existed.

Robery Fouser leads an RAS Korea tour of Jongmyo in 2016. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Jon Dunbar has become somewhat of an expert on Pimatgol, a narrow alley running parallel to the main thoroughfare Jongno. Despite its roots as a shortcut for commoners, the alley and adjacent buildings have seen much redevelopment in recent years, but rather than erasing the alley, it's been transformed into something new for a younger generation. Meanwhile, there are many installations in the area revealing to alert visitors the architectural ruins unearthed there.

Gongpyeong Historic Sites Museum near Pimatgol in downtown Seoul / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Now well into the second year of the COVID-19 pandemic, RAS Korea's most recent in-person walking tour was to Changdeok Palace, led by Dr. Cho In-souk, in the early summer of 2020 during a lull in the virus. Dr. Cho is a professional historical architect who has become a champion archer on the Korean traditional archery circuit. More than 20 people enjoyed her architectural tour of the restoration and repair of the centuries-old palace in downtown Seoul.

Cho In-souk leads an RAS Korea tour of Changdeok Palace in 2012. / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

With the gathering of groups of people severely restricted these days, the RAS Korea excursions committee hit on a great idea. Why not have some of our experts do audio tours for self-guided excursions? Recording a self-guided audio requires a lot of planning by the guide since listeners need specific verbal directions to face, walk and look.

Matt VanVolkenburg stands in front of Jungmyeongjeon in the annex to Deoksu Palace. / Courtesy of Matt VanVolkenburg

RAS Korea council member and educator Matt VanVolkenburg was first to take up the challenge from the committee. RAS Korea's first self-guided audio walking tour begins in front of Deoksu Palace, across from City Hall in downtown Seoul. Matt explains the area near City Hall, then takes listeners on an excursion along the south and west walls of the palace into Jeong-dong. Jeong-dong was the first neighborhood Westerners were permitted to live inside the city walls about 140 years ago. Historic churches, schools, embassies and other buildings are still in use or have become museums. Matt guides listeners through the entire neighborhood, explaining important places and the fascinating history of the late 1880s through the early 20th century. Jeong-dong is also where RAS Korea was organized in June 1900, and many of its first meetings were held there.

Download the audio and a PDF map for the tour from raskb.com.

We hope to have two more tours ready to go sometime soon. Let's get walking!

Steven L. Shields, a retired cleric, is president of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea (www.raskb.com) and columnist for The Korea Times. Visit raskb.com or email royalasiatickorea@gmail.com for more information about the society.