[Temple Adventures] Seoamjeong Temple presents vivid fall colors at Mt. Jiri

Inside the Geungnak-jeon hall of Seoamjeong Temple in Hamyang, South Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

By Dale Quarrington

With the sweltering summer heat finally coming to an end, and with the autumnal hues not too far off, it's the perfect time to explore Korea and the temples that dot its landscape. Arguably one of the most beautiful places to explore the changing season is Jirisan National Park. There are obvious choices inside the park like Hwaeom Temple and Ssanggye Temple, and there are lesser-known temples like Silsang Temple and Chilbul Temple. But it's Seoamjeong Temple to the far north, and just within the park's limits, that's one of the least visited ― yet most beautiful ― temples in the park.

Seoamjeong Temple was built over a 30-year period starting in 1989. The temple is most famous for its Geungnak-jeon cave shrine hall, built by the monk, Woneung, to appease the wandering spirits of those killed during the 1950-53 Korean War. Purportedly, this geographic location in Korea, which is part of Hamyang, South Gyeongsang Province, had a horrible history during the Korean War. When Woneung was traveling through the area, he heard the cries from dead spirits that had been lost during the war coming forth from this part of the mountain. He started to pray for these wandering spirits in this area, which is where the present Seoamjeong Temple is now located.

It took 10 years for Geungnak-jeon to be completed, but when you enter this shrine hall, you'll know why. It is dedicated to Amita-bul (the Buddha of the Western Paradise). Amita-bul is a transliteration of the Sanskrit word, "Amitabha," which means "Immeasurable Life" in English. Amita-bul is the overseer of the Western Pure Land, or "Jeongto" in Korean. This idea is rooted in the very name of Geungnak-jeon, which means "Paradise Hall" in English.

Typically, Amita-bul is joined by Gwanseeum-bosal (the Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). Collectively, they help guide the spirits of the dead towards the Western Paradise. Sometimes you'll even hear worshipers saying "Namo Gwanseeum-bosal" or "Namo Amita-bul." This is a transliteration of the Sanskrit, which means "to take refuge" in English. By uttering these words, devotees are praying for the dead in hopes that the dead will be reborn in the Buddhist Western Paradise. And that's why Geungnak-jeon plays such a vital role at Seoamjeong Temple.

As for Seoamjeong Temple, it's one of those places renowned for its stone reliefs. Immediately upon entering the temple grounds, you'll be greeted by reliefs of the Four Heavenly Kings, beautifully carved into the face of the mountain beneath a crowning five-story pagoda. Moss and colorful leaves from the neighboring maple trees grow in and around these entryway reliefs, and the Four Heavenly Kings intimidate and gnash their teeth, while protectively guarding the entryway to the temple grounds.

One of the Four Heavenly Kings at Seoamjeong Temple in Hamyang, South Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Having entered the main temple courtyard, you'll be greeted by the Daeung-jeon hall, which I was lucky enough to see being newly adorned with traditional dancheong colors back in 2012 shortly after its construction. Housed inside this main hall is a solitary image of Seokgamoni-bul (the Historical Buddha). And the exterior walls of the Daeung-jeon are adorned with Palsang-do (the Eight Scenes from the Buddha's Life Murals). And while the artwork that adorns the interior and exterior of the Daeung-jeon is beautiful, as is the view of the surrounding mountain peaks at Jirisan National Park from the grassy temple courtyard, it in no way prepares you for what awaits just a few meters away.

You'll hear the faint flowing of water pouring forth from the fountain that collects in the koi pond in front of the Geungnak-jeon. While this scene is peaceful, as are the entire temple grounds, it's the entry to the Geungnak-jeon just north of this tranquil pond, that will draw you in. The entryway to the cave shrine hall is understated. The protruding hillside that houses the amazing shrine hall underneath is crowded with coniferous trees and the autumnal colors from the maple trees.

The cave shrine hall is a bit of a hybrid found between the historic subterranean shrine halls that dot the Korean landscape, like the famed Seokguram Hermitage in Gyeongju and the Gunwi Grotto in Gunwi, North Gyeongsang Province, as well as the stunning stone reliefs that adorn the mountainous terrain of Seokbul Temple in Busan.

The side altar inside the Geungnak-jeon hall of Seoamjeong Temple in Hamyang, South Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

When you first enter the Geungnak-jeon, your visual senses will be overwhelmed by the beautiful splendor of the stone reliefs that cover every square inch of the cave's interior. Upon closer inspection, you'll notice that the main altar inside the hall is occupied by a two-meter-tall seated relief of Amita-bul. This relief is then joined on either side by standing reliefs of Gwanseeum-bosal and Daesaeji-bosal. Swirls of heavenly clouds form at the base of these three reliefs. To the left of the main altar is an equally large relief and shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This stone relief sits meditatively atop a stone lotus pedestal.

The Geungnak-jeon hall main altar of Seoamjeong Temple in Hamyang, South Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

Filling out the rest of the interior is the masterful Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), Bicheon (flying heavenly deities) that are playing musical instruments in praise of the Buddhas and the Bodhisattvas inside the Geungnak-jeon, and Agwi (hungry ghosts), all under a rich canopy of heavenly flowers floating and flowing between these numerous images. The interior is truly impressive and an indication of the beauty found within Korean Buddhist artwork.

In the upper courtyard and up a winding stone stairway, you'll find even more stone reliefs at Seoamjeong Temple, like those dedicated to various shaman deities that include Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) and Yongwang (the Dragon King).

The main temple courtyard of Seoamjeong Temple in Hamyang, South Gyeongsang Province / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington

All of these artistic achievements are beautifully complimented by the natural beauty that surrounds the temple grounds on the northern edge of Jirisan National Park. This natural beauty is enhanced further by the fall tones of yellow, orange and red that begin to arrive in September and October. So if you want to fully enjoy Korea at its finest, perhaps a little adventure out to the lesser-known Seoamjeong Temple is in order.

Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published three?books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the popular website, "Dale's Korean Temple Adventures."