Embracing vegetarianism

Kim Eugene, a vegan of seven years, lights a candle on a vegan cake to celebrate a birthday of a fellow vegan friend. / Courtesy of Kim Eugene

In a country where vegetarians baffle many, it is slowly becoming a new trend

By Kim Bo-eun

For 50-year-old Lee Won-bok, who has lived as a vegan for more than two decades, not eating meat, eggs and dairy products has become as natural as breathing.

He makes his own kimchi without fish sauce, which is accompanied by other vegetable-based dishes such as doenjang jjigae (bean paste stew) when he eats at home.

When he decides to eat out, he orders vegetable kimbap or jjolmyeon, but will make sure to take the egg and fish cake out. Porridge made from vegetables such as pumpkin or red beans are other options, while a few vegetarian restaurants offer him a chance to eat out.

If there are others accompanying him, he will usually order a bowl of rice and eat the vegetable-only side dishes. While it isn't the best scenario, Lee says he has become accustomed to it.

Better geared toward a growing number

Lee was a college student when it occurred to him that he didn't want to eat meat anymore, because he opposed the idea of killing animals for consumption.

This was a time before the Internet and there was a sparse number of books on the subject, let alone restaurants or people with whom he could network. He recalls that he "felt like an uninhabited island in the vast ocean."

Over the past two decades, however, Lee says life has become much easier for vegetarians, with online communities that share a host of information, countless books and a growing number of restaurants and businesses catering to them.

Vegetarian eateries have definitely become more visible in Seoul in recent years. As of January, there were about 50 vegetarian restaurants and up to 80 places that offer vegetarian dishes, according to the Korean Vegetarian Union's website.

In Korea, where the number of vegetarians remains a tiny minority, it would be fair to say that the greater accessibility to vegetarian food is largely due to a growing interest in leading a healthy lifestyle.

There is no official estimate of the number of vegetarians in the country, but the Korean Vegetarian Union believes 1 percent of the population are vegetarians, compared to the United States' 5-7 percent, the United Kingdom's 12 percent and Taiwan's 15 percent.

However, 1 percent of the 50 million population amounts to 500,000, which seems like a surprisingly high number. Lee says that figure, rather than representing those who are strict vegetarians, encompasses pesco vegetarians who eat fish and others who simply prefer and try to pursue vegetable-based diets.

A look at various online communities shows that the Korean Vegetarian Union has around 25,000 members while "Hanulvut" on the portal site Naver has some 14,000 members that visit the site regularly. Based on those figures, those in the community estimate that there are about 20,000 vegetarians in the country.

Vegetarian diets include ovo vegetarianism that allows eggs, lacto vegetarianism that allows dairy products, ovo-lacto vegetarianism that allows both and veganism that excludes both. There is also raw veganism, as well as pure veganism that exclude the five pungent spices of garlic, scallions, onions, chives and wild chives.

Vegetarians have various reasons behind their choice, such as protecting the environment and animal rights as well as health and religious beliefs. Online communities and various offline gatherings share and acquire tips on leading such a minority lifestyle in Korea.

Members of the Korean Vegetarian Union campaign against eating chickes in front of KFC in Myeong-dong, central Seoul last September.
/ Courtesy of Korean Vegetarian Union

Spreading the message

The Korean Vegetarian Union was launched as a non-profit organization in 2000 and it currently has 24,000 members, but not all are vegetarians. Lee, head of the organization, says membership is open to everyone who is interested in and supports the idea of vegetarianism.

Its activities remain limited because it has not been able to secure funding, but it has been involved in campaigns to share the benefits of vegetarianism and correct misperceptions.

A common misunderstanding about vegetarianism is that it requires painful sacrifice, Lee said.

The organization previously opened up a stall in Gwanghwamun, downtown Seoul, offering samples of dishes with soy meat.

Recently, Lee and members staged a campaign in Hongdae, telling people that
eating meat has contributed to the outbreak of livestock diseases such as foot-and-mouth and avian influenza.

This year it is aiming to have schools introduce vegetarian meals once a week.

"It will be much more effective if the schools provide sessions teaching why vegetarianism is good," Lee said.

Other communities are taking a softer, more casual approach for people to learn about veganism.

Votu is a tightly-knit vegan community of about 20 members which has been together for more than a year. It hosts various events not only for its members and
vegans in Korea, but also for non-vegans to learn about the lifestyle.

One such event is the vegan flea market, the most recent of which opened Sunday at a vegan cafe in Insa-dong. The market had 10 booths, selling everything from vegan sandwiches, ice-cream, slow fashion vintage dresses to soaps and facial oils free of animal components. Some 300 people visited, and most of the booths sold out in the first hour.

"Many came to the market, which shows how hard it is for vegans to get products they need in Korea," said Kwon Soon-ha, head of Votu.

It also hosts "vegan theater" nights, where members and friends are invited to watch a movie together and hang out over popcorn popped in vegan butter. These events help introduce veganism to those outside the community.

Visitors to Votu's vegan flea market eat vegan ice-cream out on the terrace. / Korea Times photo by Kim Bo-eun

Still a long road ahead

While life has become easier for vegetarians, barriers and intolerance still exist.

Something as simple as stopping by at a restaurant nearby and being able to grab a bite to eat without fuss is something vegetarians cannot take for granted.

Needless to say, the more restricting the diets are, the more difficult it becomes.

"Korean society remains rigid and somewhat violent for minorities. People still ask, "why don't you eat meat?'" Lee said.

"A true developed nation is one that is able to respect and accept the choice and culture of its minorities."

Kim Eugene, who has been following the pure vegan diet for seven years, pointed out that there should also be a change on the part of vegetarians themselves.

"Korea people tend to be overly considerate toward others at times. Just like meat-eating is a preference and choice, vegetarianism is also a preference and choice, and vegetarians shouldn't have to hide, or feel uncomfortable about sharing their lifestyle," she said.