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| © Medialog |
By Todd Sample
Today's dapper dresser has an appreciation for the details in his wardrobe which elevate him to a level of sartorial savvy.
When having a tailored suit made, for example, certain tweaks to the basic design can make the garment unique to the wearer, such as varying the width of the lapel or the angle of the pockets, the thread color for the button holes, the width of cuffs on the pants and the extent to which the pant legs are tapered toward the ankle.
Moving one layer of fabric closer to the skin, shirts, like suits, can also be styled in a way that fits the wearer's body shape and personal style.
Not too long ago, the vast majority of collar styles on men's shirts were limited to a standard-width pointed collar for more formal occasions, and a button-down collar for casual wear. Today, collar styles are as diverse in width and style as ever before.
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From narrow spreads just wide enough for a four-in-hand necktie knot to collars with an extreme cutaway spread in which the tips of the collar (which usually point downward) point straight to the shoulders or even backward - better suited for a double Windsor knot - there is a collar style for every taste.
No longer are button-down collars only for casual wear without a tie. For button-down collars suitable for wearing with a necktie, the buttons are actually hidden under the collar tabs and thus not outwardly visible.
No matter what style of collar is worn, however, there are several tips to keep in mind. First of all, the collar's 'wings' should always be long enough so that the tips extend into the lapel of the suit.
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When selecting a collar type, one's face shape should also be taken into account. For example, round faces should be paired with a collar which points down to emphasize the vertical rather than the horizontal. Individuals with a triangular shaped face would be wise to stick with a medium-spread collar, and those with an egg-shaped face can go for the full spread. Finally, collar stays, which are about one centimeter wide and 3 to 4 cm long, and made from mother of pearl or actual bone, can be slid into small slots under the collar to prevent the wings of the collar from turning upwards after multiple washings.
One look which is popular among bankers and lawyers in the United States is to have a shirt with striped fabric for the body and sleeves, but in contrast, a white collar and white cuffs.
Like collars, cuffs come in varying shapes and styles. The barrel cuff - called that due to its barrel-like shape - is the most common. Barrel cuffs can have one or two buttons and the edge of the cuff closest to the hand comes in various shapes. A curved edge will provide more of a classic look, while a notched edge is more edgy.
The granddaddy of all cuffs, however, is the French cuff, a truly regal look in which the end of the cuff reaches to or even beyond the tips of the fingers and then is folded back and fastened with a pair of cufflinks. As cufflinks come in countless designs, opting for French cuffs and a classy or quirky pair of cufflinks is certainly one way of setting yourself apart from others.
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