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JARRET | KAAL E.SUKTAE | VanHart di Albazar |
Seoul Fashion Week's 2015 F/W collections
By Yun Suh-young
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NOHKE | Kimseoryong |
Journalists who attended this year's fall/winter collection held at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) moaned about the collections' lack of creativity.
Nevertheless, there were some shows that saved disappointment for the guests during the highly anticipated event.
The following are brands that stood out with designs showing trends representative of this season.
JARRET
Mixing the styles of the East and West, Jarret came up with mannish, avant-garde minimalism this season under the theme, "Alice in mirror land." The stage was designed to reflect the models' silhouettes. Designer Lee Ji-yeon used vivid, fairytale-like colors with various check patterns and materials ranging from wool, check, fur, denim and lace.
KAAL E.SUKTAE
Kaal E. Suktae was inspired by Dooly, a Korean dinosaur cartoon character, and used the character in the designs. The pop-kitsch style design was ample with colors such as red, green, white, yellow, and blue depicted in various handicraft techniques on neoprene, polyester, nylon, and fake fur materials. The base colors were black and brown. The designer emphasized a modern and simple silhouette expressed through chic and elegant tailoring. Structural analysis on clothing was depicted on unbalanced cuts in the coat.
NOHKE
Nohke's designs were avant-garde and futuristic, inspired by a Stanley Kubrick's film, "2001: A Space Odyssey" (1968). The designer tried to express an imaginative space blurred from the boundaries between the past, present and future. Charisma and grace was shown through a three-dimensional silhouette. Detailed cutting and tailoring was noticeable. A fancy casual look was expressed in gray, blue, black, and red colors in wool, leather, and cotton fabrics.
Kimseoryong
Kimseoryong, who is strong with modern and formal style, showcased classic suits emphasizing a man's graceful silhouette. The classic mood was expressed in silk and wool fabrics in berets, wool trench coat, leather pants, wide pants, knitted sweater, and long cardigan designs.
VanHart di Albazar
Designer Jung Du-young introduced three-pieced classic suits with a twist inspired by artworks of Italian painter Valerio Adami. The suits were simple with detailed contours and use of intense colors. A noticeable item was the vest that comes up to right below the shirt collar.
MAG&LOGAN
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87MM | MAG&LOGAN |
ANDY & DEBB
Kim Suk-won and Yoon Won-jung of Andy & Debb introduced a sporty look this season. Inspired by a historical exploration to the moon and the conspiracy surrounding it, the designs reflected the futurism and minimalism of the 1960s. The rhythmical image of the moon was portrayed wittily in graphic patterns. Sky blue, black, white, and gray were the main colors used in tweed, wool felt, and sheep skin fabrics.
ARCHE
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ANDY & DEBB | ARCHE |
87MM
Models-turned-designers Kim Won-jung and Park Ji-woon featured "nerd" as the concept of their second runway collection. Instead of the dull, studious image of "nerds," the designers tried to portray a "cool nerd" in new-wave fashion. Jackets were pushed inside the pants and t-shirts were matched with classic wide pants to express freedom and breaking of the formality. Black, gray, navy, pink, and ivory were used as base colors. Suits, space jackets, and cropped pants were introduced in corduroy, leather, silk, and wool fabrics.