Han River bridges, then and now

Fishing and riding boats under the pedestrian bridge Indogyo / Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

Up until the early part of the 20th century, the only way to cross the unfrozen Han River was by one of the many small ferries that operated on both banks. They carried everything ― people, goods, chickens, pigs and even oxen and horses. When Horace N. Allen, an American missionary doctor, arrived in Seoul in 1884, rather than dismount and lead his pony onto the ferry, he elected to remain in the saddle ― he felt it was safer to stay mounted than to get off and risk the pony's snapping teeth or its accurate kicking hooves.

An angry Korean pony was not the only thing to fear while crossing the river. It wasn't uncommon for these ferries to sink ― either due to faulty maintenance, the actions of the passengers or cargo or the ferryman's poor judgment ― and many lives were lost. There needed to be a safer way across the river.

When the Korean government agreed to allow the Seoul-Chemulpo Railroad to build a bridge across the river, it was stipulated that a pedestrian walkway also had to be constructed to run alongside the tracks. According to the Wikipedia entry for the Hangang Railway Bridge, this was not done by the Japanese consortium that owned the railroad because of financial difficulties. However, an article published in 1900 claims that "on one side of the bridge is a walk 4 feet [1.2 meters] wide." Perhaps this "walk" was only used for maintenance, because it is very hard to imagine it being used for pedestrian and beast-of-burden traffic.

Pedestrians can be seen walking on the footpaths on the side of Indogyo Bridge while oxen with large loads of brushwood occupy the center lane. Circa 1920s-1930s. / Robert Neff Collection

In 1910, an enterprising Japanese man named Ueda built a pontoon bridge across the Han River near Mapo. Every morning, Ueda would sit at one end of the bridge and his wife would sit at the opposite end and collect the exorbitant fee they charged for people to cross the bridge. Apparently each person was charged between 5 jeon and 10 jeon (about 5,000 won to 10,000 won). It is hard to imagine many people being able to pay those prices back then.

At night, Ueda and his wife would close the bridge's gates ― thus closing off traffic until they returned in the morning. The only option open to tardy travelers was to seek passage on one of the small ferries or try and sneak across the railroad bridge ― no easy task as it was probably well-guarded.

Many people took issue with Ueda's success ― especially the ferry operators who saw the bridge as a threat to their livelihood ― and soon a large demonstration ― or riot ― took place. It is said that nearly 10,000 people participated. Eventually the ringleaders were apprehended and the riot dispersed. The authorities told the people to be patient ― that the bridge would be eventually washed away by the rainy season.

Small boats pass under the pedestrian bridge and the railroad bridges in the background, circa 1930s. / Robert Neff Collection

In October 1917, the Indogyo (Pedestrian) Bridge was constructed and for the first time people ― and beasts of burden ― could easily cross the river. Along both edges there were pedestrian paths and in the center was a lane for small carts, oxen and ponies. It was a symbol of modernity ― a step into the future ― but it also became a popular site for people to commit suicide.

According to Prof. Andrei Lankov:

"[Attempted suicides] became so common that the authorities decided to place a permanent police post at the bridge to prevent people from jumping to their death. To re-enforce the message, they also erected special signs in Korean and Japanese which read: 'Endure just a little more!' and were meant to make people think twice before committing suicide."

Beneath the pedestrian bridge probably in the 1930s / Robert Neff Collection

In July 1925, the bridge was heavily damaged during a great flood that claimed hundreds of lives. It was later rebuilt and became a place where families could frolic to escape the oppressive heat of summer. There were, however, dangers to playing in the river's depths. According to an editorial in 1928:

"[The] Han River in the summer is the only place where the citizens of Seoul can avoid the scorching heat. Riding in their boats or swimming, it seems as if the Han River is their only paradise, however, under the blue water are the dark black hands of the water ghosts [who] float in the current and constantly make their unlucky victims part of the spiritual unwater realm."

These water ghosts were said to be victims of drowning ― some accidental while others deliberately killed. With its reconstruction, the bridge had regained its notoriety.

A memorial on the Han River placates the drowned, April 2020. / Robert Neff Collection

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.