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| Bicycles at Byeokjegwan in Gyeonggi Province, circa 1910-1930s. /Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection |
By Robert Neff
In the mid-1890s, bicycles were extremely popular in Korea, especially in the foreign community. Foreign bicyclists zipped through the streets veering around lumbering oxen, dodging the hooves and teeth of cantankerous Korean ponies, laughing at the yapping dogs and barely avoiding collisions with Korean pedestrians who were amazed and irritated with the antics of their foreign guests.
It wasn't long before progressive young Koreans began to covet these "wind eaters." Yun Chi-ho, a Korean official, was said to have been one of the first Koreans to ride a bicycle in Seoul. His exploits were the talk of the town and his bicycling skill was attributed to the supernatural. Others soon followed.
In a letter home, an American missionary described her neighbor, a young Korean nobleman, riding his bicycle proudly through the streets:
"[He] goes sailing by on a nice new street that is just done and looks very fine. He wears his usual hat, tho I don't see how he keeps it on and tucks up his long coat about his waist ― seems to manage without any trouble."
Korean clothing was not conducive to riding normal bicycles and did cause quite a bit of inconvenience to Korean riders. Horace N. Allen, the American representative to Korea, suggested to potential bicycle dealers that since Korean men "wear long skirts, which have to be tied around the waist when riding the ordinary man's wheel" that bicycles built for women would probably sell better.
Bicycles were prohibitively expensive and, especially in the beginning, had to be ordered from abroad ― usually with the aid of a Westerner. Soon, some of the foreign shops in Seoul and Jemulpo (modern Incheon) imported a handful of bicycles and sold them for over $160 ― a sum that only the very rich could afford.
A young Korean noble, "his envy having risen" after seeing his friends riding bicycles in the streets, swore that "he wouldn't eat any more rice" until he had a bicycle of his own.
Not all bicycles were purchased. In 1898, an English-language newspaper printed in Seoul, The Independent, reported a brand new bicycle had been stolen in Jemulpo. The bicycle had been ordered from Shanghai for a Korean general and there was little expectation that it would be recovered ― the officer had never seen his bicycle and he would be "unable to identify if he were to see it." He was not the only one to lose his bicycle. A few years later, James S. Gale, a Canadian missionary, had his bicycle stolen from his residence.
By 1910, bicycles were so common in Seoul that the post office began using them for special deliveries. Letters and small packages could be delivered within 30 minutes in the downtown area and within an hour for deliveries to the Yongsan area.
Bicycles remained a popular form of transportation in Seoul until well into the mid-20th century when public transportation (subways and buses) and the increase in automobile ownership made them less desirable. Over the last two decades, bicycling has again enjoyed a resurgence in popularity as a form of recreation ― aided by extensive bike lanes that cross the city ― and, in fact, the whole peninsula.
In light of the coronavirus and the need for social distancing, bicycles may be the answer. Bike stands are located throughout the city and are convenient and safe transportation options for those who want to avoid crowded buses and subways. As gyms and training facilities are closing and team sports discouraged, many people are cycling for exercise.
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| Bicyclists on the river March 2020 / Courtesy of Robert Neff Collection |
This weekend, the parks along the Han River were filled with people taking advantage of the spring weather and clear skies. Many people felt relaxed enough to remove their masks and small knots of people could be seen eating at the tightly packed seating areas in front of the convenience stores. But not everyone thought this was a good idea.
When asked if he took any special precautions while riding, Ben Gibbons, a cyclist, answered:
"I feel safe riding (with a mask on) but not so safe seeing huge swathes of people chilling out in close proximity. Complacency amongst the public is a very real and present danger right now."
Certainly people shouldn't feel scared from going outside during these times, provided they follow a few social distancing practices such as keeping at least two meters away from others, wearing a mask and washing hands at every opportunity. It is still possible to hop on a bike and go for a ride, preferably on some deserted bike paths at a low-traffic time of day.
Robert Neff is a historian and columnist for The Korea Times. He can be reached at robertneff04@gmail.com.
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