Soju pop-up captivates Hong Kong with flavorful cocktails

Jinro Toad, the mascot of Jinro soju is seen at the Korean brewing giant HiteJinro’s pop-up store in Causeway Bay, Hong Kong. Korea Times photo by Kwak Yeon-soo

HONG KONG — A soju-themed pop-up store dedicated to Korea’s signature distilled spirit has recently been opened by drinks giant HiteJinro in the bustling heart of Causeway Bay, Hong Kong.

The space features an eye-catching installation of Jinro Toad, the brand’s plump amphibian mascot, as well as an impressive array of merchandise from T-shirts and cushions to soju glasses, and even a tower designed to dispense “somaek,” a mixed drink consisting of soju and beer.

A bar there offers a creative twist on traditional soju, serving up eight unique cocktails including the Jinro mojito, ice lemon tea soju and cream somaek.

“HiteJinro’s soju exports to Hong Kong increased 33 percent in 2022 from a year earlier,” HiteJinro spokesperson Nho Eun-jung said. “We hope to raise our brand awareness and inform Hong Kongers that there are many other ways to enjoy soju other than the standard way of drinking it from a shot glass.”

Since its October opening, more than 20,000 people have visited the store, according to HiteJinro, which plans to run the pop-up until early 2025.

Store manager Douglas Wang noted soju's growing popularity in Hong Kong.

“The busiest hours for the pop-up are after 6 p.m., when nearby office workers — many in their 20s and 30s — come here for drinks after work,” Wang said.”

“I heard that original soju is popular in Korea, but Hong Kongers like fruit-flavored soju, especially the green grape flavor. They also like soju cocktails because of their smooth, refreshing taste.”

Douglas Wang, the store manager of HiteJinro's pop-up store in Causeway Bay / Korea Times photo by Kwak Yeon-soo

Soju exports on increase

In recent years, soju has expanded its flavor profile, introducing a variety of fruit-infused options such as strawberry, plum, grapefruit and peach, with these innovations adding a new twist to the traditional soju experience. The classic version, known for its clear appearance, smooth texture and clean taste, remains the most widely consumed alcoholic beverage in Korea.

According to 2021 data from Korea’s National Tax Service, the average adult living in the country consumes 53 bottles of soju a year, or roughly one bottle per week. It is also the most recognizable Korean alcoholic drink among foreign nationals, according to a 2023 survey conducted by the Korean Food Promotion Institute.

The origins of soju date back to the 13th century, when the Mongols introduced distillation to Korea. Soju was traditionally made by distilling fermented rice and other grains.

In the 1960s, when rice was in short supply, the government banned the production of rice-based soju and makgeolli (Korean rice wine) as part of the Grain Management Act of 1965.

Since then, other starches such as sweet potato and tapioca have been used to make soju.

Soju diluted with water became popular because it was relatively cheap; a 360 milliliter bottle of diluted soju typically sells for 2,000 won ($1.50) at convenience stores and 5,000 won to 6,000 won at restaurants.

A Jinro mojito is served at the Korean soju brand's Hong Kong pop-up store. Korea Times photo by Kwak Yeon-soo

The alcohol content of soju has decreased over time, perhaps reflecting changing attitudes toward alcohol. In 1924, the first Jinro soju was 35 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). Diluted soju’s ABV steadily dropped from 30 percent in 1965 to 25 percent in 1973 and below 20 percent in 2006. Today, the figure is as low as 14.9 percent.

Although soju is dubbed “the national drink of Korea,” its domestic consumption has continued to decline because of changing cultural trends — much like in Japan, where sake consumption is also falling.

Consumption of soju dropped 12.7 percent to 825,848 kiloliters (218 million gallons) in 2021 from 945,860 kiloliters in 2017.

By contrast, its global appeal is on the rise, with exports of soju increasing by 13.2 percent in 2022. The value of shipments reached $93.3 million in 2022, rising sharply from $82.4 million a year earlier, according to data published by the Korea Customs Service.

Overseas sales of other types of Korean spirits, including fruit-flavored soju, have also reached a record high of $88.9 million in 2022, up 9.9 percent from the previous year, contributing to its international success.

Anthony Wang, mixologist and co-founder of Shake & Stir. He compares soju’s versatility to a blank piece of paper on which anything can be painted. Courtesy of Anthony Wang

Soju cocktails galore

And Hong Kong is no exception to this trend. A growing fascination with Korean culture, increasing imports of soju, more restaurants offering the drink and mixologists organizing tasting sessions have all fueled the soju trend.

In 2022, wine broker Ted Ko established Kave — a platform offering traditional Korean spirits both online and in physical locations. Kave's mission is to introduce and popularize Korean alcoholic beverages to consumers in Hong Kong.

“We now import soju from 12 regional brands, including Won Soju [made with 100 percent domestic rice from Gangwon Province], Misang Jeju Citron Soju [made from Korean citrus grown on Jeju Island] and Chusa Apple Soju [made from fresh apples in Yesan County, South Chungcheong Province],” Ko said.

“We initially partnered with two soju distilleries but that has grown to eight. The highly aromatic Doraeha Soju and Won Soju are both premium brands that are performing particularly well.”

“Pocha” (pub-style) restaurant OBP, in Central, Hong Kong, offers soju-based cocktails such as the Hourglass (black tea, pineapple, lemon, Yakult and milk punch with Ryuh soju, Vedrenne passion fruit liqueur and Fernet Hunter) and the Rosario (Hwayo soju, Angostura Bitters, green plum and lemon).

At Moyo, also in Central, cocktails such as the Jamong (Hwayo soju, grapefruit and syrup) and Soju Sour (Damsoul pine soju, lemon, Angostura Bitters, syrup and egg white) offer unique flavor profiles.

Bluecheck Martini, a soju-based cocktail / Korea Times photo by Kwak Yeon-soo

Many bartenders in Hong Kong say interest in soju has increased over the past four years.

Lydia Kim, a Korean mixologist based in Hong Kong, noted soju drinkers tend to be on the young side, aged between 20 and 40 years old.

“Based on my observations, fruit-flavored soju is highly preferred by women. In Central, an average cocktail costs HK$120, but soju is priced at HK$80 to HK$90, which makes it affordable for younger people to share a bottle,” Kim explained.

“I believe premium soju brands, with over 20 percent ABV, have a better chance of drawing local drinkers compared with soju in green bottles, because they can be a great option for mixing delicious cocktails.”

Hong Kong mixologist Anthony Wang, co-founder of drinks consultancy Shake & Stir, is another soju enthusiast. He thinks soju is affordable, easy to drink and combines well with a wide variety of other drinks.

“As a bartender, I do my own infusions, to make the best of the spirit,” he said. “Soju is like a piece of A4 paper — I can paint whatever I want and create my own cocktail. It’s like magic that elevates the drinks.”

Wang said Won Soju, created by K-pop singer Jay Park, is his favorite soju, because it tastes like clarified makgeolli.

“Won Soju is good for shots,” he said. “It’s good for making drinks, too. It’s suitable for smoothing and caramelizing the texture of cocktails.”

Wang thinks that soju goes well with the drinking culture of Hong Kongers who are "mostly drinking for fun, nightlife and happiness."

He predicts that as more hidden, unexpected brands come to Hong Kong, locals will want to try them.

When it comes to pairing soju with Cantonese cuisine, he suggests trying it with pork lung soup and char siu (barbecued pork). “Soju is clean and rice-based, so it would be a great match for Cantonese food,” he said.