A trip around South Jeolla Province

The Gwangyang Cheong Maeshil Farm boasts numerous ``maeshil,’’ or plum trees. The farm is located in Gwangyang, South Jeolla Province.

/ Korea Times photos by Han Sang-hee

By Han Sang-hee

The breeze may still be a bit chilly, but the southern part of the Korean peninsula is already welcoming spring. Yeosu, South Jeolla Province, is not only getting ready for the flowery season, but also Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea, with neighboring cities Gwangyang, Gurye and Hadong joining in.

In line with various preparations, the organizing committee of the expo has designated 393 restaurants, shops and lodging houses in 16 cities around South Jeolla Province and has also came up with a list of 50 tourism courses offering a full experience of landscapes, food and culture.

The Korea Times followed a travel course recommended by the expo committee last month, and indeed had a treat.

The first stop was Gurye, which is famous for the annual ``sansuyu,’’ or Japanese Cornelian cherry, festival. The festival was canceled this year due to damage from foot-and-mouth disease, but this has not stopped the bright yellow flowers showing off their colors.

The area is also famous for its various types of “wild” vegetables, which can be enjoyed at a designated restaurant called Baekhwa Hoegwan (061-782-0600). With some 35 side dishes, the restaurant has been running for the past 60 years. The owner Lee Eun-suk, 63, insists on using vegetables that are gathered on the nearby mountains and never uses any artificial flavoring to spice up the dishes.

``I learned cooking and preparing all these dishes from my mother-in-law who was the owner before me. She was so strict that she would throw away food when she didn’t think it was perfect,’’ Lee said. For those who want to experience spring with their taste buds, from bamboo and fatsia shoots, baloon flower roots to sesame leaves, this is be the place to stop for a hearty meal.

Next stop was Hwaeomsa, or Hwaeom Temple, which was built in 544 during Silla Kingdom’s (57 B.C.-935 A.D.) reign of King Jinheung. It’s not only the biggest temple on Mt. Jiri, but also has numerous cultural treasures and buildings around the temple grounds. The temple is big indeed, but rather than being flashy and colorful, it has a more modest exterior; rough, rigid edges and faded reds and blues on the temple’s ``dancheong,’’ or traditional multicolored paintwork on wooden buildings.

The Gurye sansuyu village is also a famous tourist attraction where visitors can take photos and just enjoy the yellow cloud of sansuyu blossoms. The villagers say that the blossoms are expected to bloom a bit late this year, but will probably last through April.

Near the village sits Mt. Oh where you can see the whole scenery of the Seomjon River, Gurye and also the Mt. Jiri range. At the top of the mountain, which is reached after a pretty rough ride, there is a temple called Saseongam. The temple itself is surprisingly high, with long, sturdy-looking pillars supporting the small temple building, and indeed the view was worth the rocky, narrow ride.

In order to get to Hadong from Gurye, one must drive along National Highway 19, which is known to be one of the most beautiful routes in the country thanks to the sparkling Seomjin River and cherry blossoms lined up in the side. Although the blossoms were not in full bloom, the refreshing breeze and subtle scene of the river was enough to brush off the chilly winter blues.

For dinner, stop by any one of the king crab restaurants in Hadong near the river, as the river is known to be famous for a particular crab. The main dish is king crab soup, made with doenjang, or soybean paste, broth, king crabs and various vegetables, but for those who want something more mild and light, try out corbicula soup near the river as well. This simple soup is made of small corbiculas that are also a favorite in the area, and is a winner for those searching for a clean, simple soup dish.

Moving to Gwangywang, the first place to visit is the Cheong Maeshil Farm owned and operated by Hong SSang-ri. The farm itself is impressive with numerous crocks lined up in the middle of the farm overlooking the Seomjin River and the spacious plantation of plum trees. For a bit more, try out the maeshil makgeolli, or Korean traditional rice wine, or even purchase some small treats such as alcohol, pickled dishes and even candy made of maeshil.

Last but not least, visitors must try out the famous Gwangyang bulgogi. Samdae Gwangyang is a designated eatery and has been running for more than 70 years, and thus is very famous around the neighborhood. Interestingly, the restaurant dips the meat of ``hanwoo,’’ or Korean beef, into marinated sauce right after an order, instead of marinating the meat beforehand. The bulgogi was soft and tender, a bit lighter as the meat was not marinated for a long time, but still full of taste and aroma.

For more information on designated places to eat, shop and stay and others, visit www.expo2012.or.kr.