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| Chef Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn, left, and Chef Pichaya "Pam" Utharntharm of Thailand / Courtesy of S. Pellegrino |
By Kwak Yeon-soo
BANGKOK ― Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn and Pichaya "Pam" Utharntharm are the world's foremost Thai chefs who are reinterpreting classic Thai dishes. Both graduates of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), they returned to their homeland to create innovative Thai cuisines that use modern cooking techniques.
Chef Ton had worked in many Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, including Eleven Madison Park, The Modern and Jean Georges before opening his restaurant Le Du in Thailand nine years ago. Originated from Thai word meaning "season," Le Du is ranked No. 4 by Asia's 50 Best Restaurants.
Chef Pam trained at three-starred Jean-Georges restaurant in the U.S. She was selected in Forbes 30 Under 30 before becoming a judge of Top Chef Thailand, a cooking competition show. Her restaurant "Potong," which translates as "simple," serves imaginative Thai cuisine that focuses on seasonality and sustainability.
Recently, the two chefs participated in S. Pellegrino Young Chef Asia regional finals as jury members to search for their successors in representing Asia and bringing Asian cuisine to the world.
Below is an excerpt of The Korea Times interview with them. It has been edited for clarity and readability.
How do you feel about S. Pellegrino Young Chef Asia regional finals being held in Thailand?
Pam: I think it's very exciting that the event is held in Thailand this year. It brings a lot of young chefs to explore Thailand, Thai culture and Thai food.
Ton: This is a jumpstart for young chefs to get experience and attention in the culinary world. Back in the days when we were young chefs, we didn't have this kind of opportunity. So I want to tell young chefs, especially those in Thailand, to not be afraid and just out and show what they've got.
How has Thai culture and your heritage affected your cooking style?
Pam: My restaurant Potong is all about heritage. It's located in a 120-year-old building, which belongs to my ancestors who moved from China. We became Chinese-Thai. When I started running the restaurant, I told myself that this is the place I want to bring my heritage, use my techniques and create a cuisine that's never done before.
Ton: What we try to do is to modernize Thai food, but still keep the goodness of classic Thai cuisine. I think it's important for all the chefs in Thailand to remember that when they cook, they represent their own culture.
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| Chef Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn, center in the judges' table, and Chef Pichaya "Pam" Utharntharm, left, listen to a contestant's speech during S. Pellegrino Young Chef Asia regional finals held in The Food School Bangkok, Sunday. Korea Times photo by Kwak Yeon-soo |
Asia food is growing rapidly in the global market and Asian chefs are attracting a lot of attention nowadays. What are your thoughts on the impact of Asian food in the gastronomy market?
Ton: Asian food and culture is a worldwide sensation. In every corner around the world, you can find Asian restaurants, including Thai, Korean and Vietnamese … Restaurants use more and more Asian ingredients. I think it's a positive thing that more people from other parts of continents try to explore Asian food.
Social responsibility is an important value. How do you think the culinary world is evolving?
Pam: I'm concerned about "no waste" and I try to push toward sustainability. It's really hard to go 100 percent, but at least we try to not use plastics, use (ingredients from) local farmers and suppliers. Using humble ingredients and modern skills, we can create something special. Young chefs are learning that this kind of movement is very important to become a good chef. Also the customers appreciate that now, which is a good thing.
The two chefs also shared their fond memories of Korean food. "While studying at CIA, I lived in a house with Koreans (three Koreans and two Thai). My favorite Korean food is jjamppong (spicy seafood noodle soup). It's in my memory when I was in New York. Until today I miss that jjamppong dish," Pam said. Chef Ton said, "What I love the most is hanwoo (Korean beef). I love all kinds of Korean food like sundubu jjigae (spicy soft tofu stew), gomtang (beef soup), sundae (blood sausage) and Korean fried chicken."
