French chef takes enlightening culinary journey in Seoul

Damien Selme, an executive chef at Andaz Seoul Gangnam, poses in the kitchen of the hotel restaurant in Seoul, March 4. Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

By Lee Hae-rin

When Damien Selme first visited Korea in the winter of 2009 as a Michelin chef, he did not see himself cooking for the G20 luncheon or at a five-star hotel in Seoul. Born in Seoul and adopted by French parents to a northeastern village Mancy of France at the age of eight months, Selme planned a short vacation to discover his roots in Korea.

"Back then, I didn't understand the Korean culinary culture, to be honest. For me, everything was just too spicy and red-colored and smelled very strong," Selme said during the interview with The Korea Times at Andaz Seoul Gangnam, March 4. "Eating ice cream in winter, hot soup in summer. As a foreigner, I was shocked, asking myself, 'Where am I?'"

To his surprise, the trip opened a whole new chapter in his career and another dimension of gastronomic experience. Traveling across the country by himself to the provincial cities of Busan, Jeonju, and Gyeongju and discovering new tastes, Selme said he soon fell in love with the country and its cuisine, naming Korean common foods like Gamjatang (pork back-bone stew) and Sundaeguk (soup of Korean sausage) as his comfort foods.

"I discovered it's not only spices, but there are also so many different foods in Korea that are quite healthy," he said, expressing interest in the original use of fermentation, vegetables, and clear soups in Korean cuisine.

His interest in this new culture led him to settle down in the country and work at the Korean Furniture Museum in 2013. Within less than a year, he found himself involved in the country's biggest international event at the time, cooking for the first ladies' G20 luncheon as a sous-chef.

Damien Selme, an executive chef at Andaz Gangnam Seoul / Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

"It was a big challenge," Selme recalled, explaining the pressure behind his then-mission to fit the tastes of 20 VIPs of different nationalities while managing the kitchen with a team of Korean chefs. The menu had to be authentically Korean, safe and accessible to foreign taste buds, and ready on time."

In such international events, safety and timing are also critical, the chef explained. He was given 20 different lists of ingredients to avoid in case of triggering allergic reactions, while there was no room for delay or mistakes.

"It was a long process to accommodate all of the restrictions," Selme said. "…requiring several internal tastings so as to control spices and saltiness in the preparation.

However, as fancy and grand as his experience on the international stage may seem, Selme said that the G20 luncheon was a small episode in his culinary journey. The real challenge is to be judged three times a day by the guests and his team in daily life.

"To be honest, it's just one small event in my career. It was a good experience, but I think the biggest challenge for a chef is on daily basis," he said. "Our regular guests are pickier than these kinds of events."

His experience at international kitchens deepened his understanding and love for Korean cuisine. Selme joined the Hyatt brand in 2017 and worked as the French Chef de Cuisine at Park Hyatt Busan from 2017 to May 2018, and Executive Sous-Chef at Park Hyatt Shanghai from 2018 to 2021.

Seafood grill menu prepared by Damien Selme's kitchen at Andaz Gangnam Seoul / Korea Times photo by Lee Hae-rin

"Korean food is very well-made, healthy instant food ― and I mean it in a good way. You just cook, boil, and you're done. There are not too many steps and you respect the ingredients," Selme said, comparing it with Chinese cuisine, "where everything is heavy, oily, and deep-fried."

His understanding of the country's cuisine fits well with the ambience of Andaz, the young and trendy branch of the Hyatt brand in Apgujeong-dong, Seoul. Since this January, Selme has been leading the hotel's kitchen with 45 chefs.

"Here, we would like to offer our guests something more refreshing and appealing. That's why you see a lot of colors, herbs, and 'namuls' (Korean seasoned vegetables), as we try to be on point with the season. Always using premium ingredients, but simply made," Selme said.

Jogakbo, the seafood grill restaurant at Andaz Gangnam Seoul / Courtesy of Andaz

The chef now seeks to forge an authentic gastronomic heritage from diverse culinary and cultural backgrounds and feature them in the hotel's new menu with a Korean twist. Most importantly, his priority is passing down his experiences and culinary legacy to the next generation in the kitchen.

"I have to take care of the young chefs, they are the next generation. I try to train them by showing examples. It's not only guests that judge us, but also our team. You have to show your behavior, attitude, skills, and passion every day," Selme said, explaining his philosophy on dedication and leadership.

That's why along with the classic "ppali-ppali," which means "quickly" in Korean and is essential in a kitchen where there is no room for delay, "sugo hasseo," or "well done," is his most used Korean expression to his team members.

"You're not alone. If you succeed, its teamwork," Selme said.