Ensuring to be seen

By Robert Neff

During the close of the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910) era, glasses were often viewed as a symbol of rank and prestige rather than a tool to enable the elderly to see. But that is not the way it was in the beginning.

It isn't clear when glasses were first introduced into Korea. It was probably during the 16th century through China but there are some who believe that Korea manufactured some glasses. They were far from easily obtained and were quite expensive but prized for allowing the elderly to regain some of the vision of their youth.

Of course, there were rules on the proper etiquette of when to wear glasses. Similar to smoking tobacco, one did not wear glasses in front of one's elders and superiors. To do so in front of the monarch was even worse.

When Paul Georg von Mollendorff, a German who served as the first Western advisor to the Korean government, went before King Gojong on Dec. 26, 1882, he removed his glasses.

The king, delighted with Von Mollendorff and his manners, asked him to put his eyeglasses back on. When the American newspaperman, Frank Carpenter had an audience with the king in December 1888, he was gently reminded that if he did not want to appear impertinent before the monarch then he should remove his spectacles as they were seen as an emblem of rank.

But monarchs were also governed by etiquette. King Jeongjo (r. 1776-1800), who may have been the first Joseon monarch to wear glasses, was faced with the dilemma of choosing whether to wear his glasses in front of his council or forego them and basically be unable to read the documents before him. He apparently chose to wear them.

But glasses had other practical uses as well. Members of the Korean cavalry were also presented with goggles of sorts to protect their eyes from dust.

But not all eyeglasses in Korea were made from glass _ only the cheap ones. The best and most expensive were made from a crystal obtained in Gyeongsang Province. Women were said to be the best judges of the crystals and chose which ones were to be used.

In 1886, Horace Allen described these glasses:

"The Coreans really excel in the manufacture of eye-glasses. I have been ashamed when trying to fit a superior lens, from a good trial case of glasses, in place of a stone lens already worn. I could not do it; the Corean lens was the better. They are made of transparent stone, finely ground, and are expensive, costing in the neighborhood of $100."

This was a fantastic amount of money. The average laborer only made ten to twenty cents a day! Allen noted, however, that some unscrupulous Chinese and Japanese traders were making money by switching the crystal lens with the cheaper foreign glass lens and selling them as the genuine article.

In the late 1890s, James Scarth Gale described a Korean scholar:

"In immaculate white he emerges from the holes and corners of every mud village. If he is an official of importance, he does not walk alone, but is assisted by the arms on each side. If he ventures by himself, it is with a magnificent stride that clears the street of indifferent stride that clears the street of indifferent passers, and commands only on-lookers. In one hand is a pipe three feet long, in the other a fan; over his eyes two immense discs of dark crystal, not to assist him in seeing, but to insure his being seen. How precious these are! Many a man will forego the necessaries of life if only he can gain a pair of Kyung-ju (spectacles), and so cover himself with glory before an on-looking assemblage."

Apparently the price of glasses had come down. Gale claimed that he tried to help a Korean scholar who was experiencing financial difficulties by buying his glasses for an inflated price. Gale offered 6 dollars which greatly offended the scholar who had purchased his glasses at a great bargain ― only fifteen dollars!

Robert Neff is a historian and contributing writer for The Korea Times. ― ED.

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