Fellow foodie attacks top Korean food critic

Food columnist Hwang Gyo-ik. Korea Times file

By Ko Dong-hwan

Korea's most popular food critic and busy restaurateur Baek Jong-won is under fire from another culinary expert after discouraging a desperate bar owner in a controversial blind makgeolli test.

Baek, who runs more than 25 franchise brands in Korea and is the most sought-after chef-tainer (chef-entertainer), was criticized by food columnist Hwang Gyo-ik on Facebook. Hwang was apparently upset by

the test on SBS TV food show “Baek Jong-won's Alley Restaurant” that aired in September.

The episode saw a loss-making rice wine bar owner in Seoul named Park Yu-deok seek help from Baek. But the pair exchanged words over their difference in makgeolli tastes.

Baek then suggested Park take the impromptu test, identifying the manufacturing regions of 12 makgeollis from across the country to demonstrate his expertise. Park picked only two while Baek nailed them all.

Park believed Baek was putting him down for not knowing them all as a makgeolli bar owner who, according to the star, “should possess such skill.”

Baek also was critical of Park's version of makgeolli sold at the bar, saying it was too watery. While Park insisted he will stick with his creation, Baek urged him to give it up and sell popular brands.

Baek Jong-won in "My Little Television" on MBC, where he first garnered nationwide fame. He has maintained that momentum, opening restaurants and cafes and featuring on television. Korea Times file

Hwang, who has been writing columns for over 20 years, said the blind test lacked fairness and the show decorated the game's winner with “authority” and the loser with “embarrassment.” He also said identifying a makgeolli's origin in a blind test is nearly impossible, considering there are over 800 kinds in the country.

“Without giving him any information, the show made Park take the test,” Hwang said. “It's impossible. I call such a showbiz gig an exaggeration. Now tabloid-seeking journalists are attacking me for that. I call them garbage reporters as well.”

In a series of Facebook posts in the past few days explaining his criticism of Baek and the show, Hwang attacked Baek's popular home-cooking recipes for being “not authentic but containing too much condiments.” He was also critical of television shows praising Baek's culinary feats.

“After the test, Baek swaggered like a champ while Park lowered his tail,” Hwang said on the social network. “Now, is this image-making necessary in the program? If you had even a bit of understanding about human palates, such a format couldn't have come up.”

Baek, 52, is married to actress So Yoo-jin, who is 15 years younger. He rose to stardom in 2015 when his Chungchung Province accent and “easy” cooking style on MBC TV show “My Little Television” touched the hearts of many. Drawing parallels with British chef-tainer Gordon Ramsay, Baek's recent television shows coach struggling restaurant owners and street food vendors.