Hanbok rental boom by tourists sparks debate over preserving tradition

Foreign tourists dressed in fusion hanbok walk around Gyeongbok Palace in central Seoul, May 6. Korea Times photo by Park Simon

A debate over what constitutes authenticity in Korean traditional clothing has resurfaced as foreign tourists flock to Korea’s royal palaces in record numbers, with 1.36 million arrivals in July alone.

Rental shops offering hanbok, Korea's traditional costume, have become a staple experience for visitors, particularly around Seoul’s palaces. This raises questions about the distinction between traditional and fusion styles and their impact on Korean cultural heritage.

On Monday, the narrow, bustling alleys near exits 2 and 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station on Seoul Metro Line 3 were lined with more than 30 hanbok rental shops, each serving a steady stream of international and local customers.

These shops, which offer multilingual services, generally charge 15,000 won ($11) to 30,000 won for two-hour rentals. Many sprang up after October 2013 when the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism began offering free palace entry to visitors wearing hanbok, turning the practice into a popular activity. According to the Korea Heritage Service (KHS), nearly 1.72 million visitors wearing hanbok entered Gyeongbok Palace last year, averaging about 4,700 people a day.

Most visitors opt for "fusion hanbok," featuring exaggerated wire hoops for flared skirts, extensive gold decorations and patterns, and ribbons inspired by wedding attire — elements not seen in traditional hanbok. While rental shop owners appreciate hanbok's growing popularity, many express concern about criticism directed at fusion styles.

"Tourists often ask for ‘demon hunter style’ hanbok and especially the gat after seeing the film these days," said Jeong, 65, who has operated her hanbok shop off the main alley for over a decade.

"About eight in 10 visitors prefer the flashy fusion hanbok. Although most shops offer both traditional and fusion types, almost all visitors choose fusion style," she added. "It would take a tremendous amount of time to dress each tourist in traditional attire."

Visitors from Korea and abroad dressed in traditional hanbok take part in a reenactment of a traditional coming-of-age ceremony in front of the National Folk Museum in central Seoul, during the 2024 Hanbok Culture Week, Oct. 14, 2024. Newsis

Similar views were echoed by other shop owners and local visitors.

"Traditional hanbok doesn’t sell," remarked Seol Ji, a worker at another popular rental store, displaying a gold-adorned skirt. "Everyone wants something shiny that looks good in photos."

Park, 22, visiting Gyeongbok Palace in a vibrant pink-gold hanbok, commented, "I chose the attire simply because it’s pretty. Although it looks different from traditional hanbok, I think it’s great that so many people get a chance to try the modernized version and enjoy Korean culture."

Critics say such embellishments dilute the identity of Korea’s national dress, and regulators have so far been unable to curb the proliferation of altered styles.

"Making hanbok more popular is great, but it bothers me when people treat these costumes as national attire," said Lee, a traditional hanbok shop owner. "Even traditional hanbok can be vivid and beautiful."

Former Jongno District head Kim Young-jong criticized highly modified rental costumes, even advocating for abolishing the free entry policy. While officials acknowledge the challenges posed by these nontraditional hanbok variants, they have yet to take any formal steps to limit their use.

Tourists dressed in fusion hanbok pose in Gyeongbok Palace in central Seoul, Aug. 31. Yonhap

In 2024, former KHS chief Choi Eung-chon remarked, "Many tourists borrow hanbok and post photos on social media, but often the garments do not match traditional patterns or are so changed they lose their national identity. It’s time for the National Heritage Agency to clarify and improve the concept of our original hanbok."

However, officials stated there are currently no plans to regulate highly modified styles. "Hanbok has continuously evolved across generations," one agency spokesperson said. "We hope that the palace hanbok experience will lead to greater global recognition and appreciation."