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RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Maple House returns strong after renovation

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The newly renovated interior of Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon, Aug. 12 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

The newly renovated interior of Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon, Aug. 12 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

There's usually not much point in reviewing a restaurant a second time. I can only think of one restaurant that has been spotlighted in this column twice: CALI Kitchen, which got an initial rave in 2023 and then a farewell before closing a year later.

The second Restaurant of the Week to wear that lofty accolade twice is going to be Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon, which was published almost two years ago. Formerly a Korean brunch cafe with an excellent food menu, it closed down a few months ago, and I probably wasn't the only one saddened. It reopened after a quick renovation, now taking on a bit more of the character of a Western-style diner, featuring great food — albeit with some changes.

When factoring in price, quality and quantity, Maple House remains my favorite place for breakfast food in Seoul. The breakfast portion of the menu has been significantly expanded, providing more options without sacrificing the earlier selections. There have been a few other tweaks to the food preparation as well.

One of my problems with the previous Maple House menu was how they prepared the breakfast sausages sliced in half for quicker preparation, but lacking the juiciness that a proper breakfast sausage should offer. That practice seems to have been done away with, and now the breakfast sausages are one of the highlights of the breakfast plate.

The bacon slices served here are now thicker, juicier and less crispy. I'll also miss the previous potato hash, which was served in small cubes, compared to the larger slices offered now. I'm still satisfied with the pancakes.

Plates of all-day breakfast food are served at Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, Aug 26. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Plates of all-day breakfast food are served at Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, Aug 26. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

The rest of the menu has undergone a more thorough overhaul. Gone are the pastas, which I never tried, and the chicken sandwiches, which will be missed.

There are a few more items now, including a burger and a patty melt. The burger is basic and could do with some more customization, but it's competent enough to maybe give nearby RawRaw Burger a run for its money.

The newly remodeled exterior of Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, Aug. 14 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

The newly remodeled exterior of Maple House in central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, Aug. 14 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

In my previous review, I praised the peaceful, minimalist atmosphere, supported by calming jazz or classical music. The new version, already attracting more people every time I stop by, always seems more frenetic. But I'm fine if the tradeoff is that I have to share this pleasant restaurant with more people to ensure that it stays open.

Maple House is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day of the week except Monday.

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