RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Nomercy Wurst finally opens

People crowd into Nomercy Wurst in central Seoul's Gyeongnidan neighborhood, May 5. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

That new currywurst restaurant in front of Gyeongnidan's front gate is finally open, but was it worth the wait? All the people crowding in seem to say so.

For the past six months, the brightly glowing but empty storefront has been a landmark of the intersection between central Seoul's Gyeongnidan and Haebangchon neighborhoods. That digital marquee promising to open soon has been taunting residents since last December. Finally, after overcoming an interminable delay in construction, the place opened last month.

Despite the big red "Berliner Currywurst" sign glowing prominently, the place is actually named Nomercy Wurst, and it shares ownership with Nomercy Burger over in Itaewon's Quy Nhon-gil area.

Nomercy Wurst has several standout dishes, served with what appear to be pretty authentic flavors. The currywurst is a handsome meal, offering up two sausages — Nürnberger and Regensberger pork sausages — served drowning in curry ketchup, with a side of aioli and a helping of pretty good quality sauerkraut. Each plate also comes with a cornichon, plus a chunk of bread that is perfect for soaking up all the sauces in the end.

A plate of currywurst and a beer are served at Nomercy Wurst, May 19. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

You can also order other types of sausages, including weisswurst and a distinctly un-German chorizo. When asked, the owner simply said the sausages came from Gangwon Province.

There is also the schinkenplatte, a platter of ham-based cold cuts. I have yet to try the kartoffelsuppe, a vegetable-based soup that always seems to be sold out.

The menu also offers a bratwurst im brötchen, with a sausage stuck into a round bun. It tastes amazing, but I found it nearly impossible to eat without it falling apart. They covered the top of the bun with aioli, making it not only harder to eat, but also extremely messy. Is there a graceful way to eat this? Probably not, but the flavors make it worth the effort.

A bratwurst im brötchen tastes great but provides a messy eating experience at Nomercy Wurst, May 23. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Everything is priced very reasonably, mostly below 10,000 won. The portions won't stuff you, but it's still enough to ease your hunger.

And of course, this being a German restaurant, they offer beer on tap, notably several kinds from Weihenstephaner.

Even if there are a lot of people there, the restaurant seems pretty quick at service. Be prepared to eat fast or get your order as takeout, because the restaurant is not large, and there's not a single seat around. There are spots to accommodate you if you're up for eating while standing.

Nomercy Wurst seems like a welcomed addition to the neighborhood. As it's still getting started, it's been a little difficult figuring out when it's open. Some details are still being ironed out. Visit @nomercy_wurst on Instagram for more information.