RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Palma showcases traditional tacos, experimental flamboyance

A tteokgalbi meat patty wraps around a grilled pepper, served on a fresh house-made tortilla at Palma in the Seochon area of Seoul. Korea Times photo by Jennifer Flinn

The origins of the taco are lost in the mists of history. Beyond its clear birth in Central America, there’s very little agreement even on the etymology of the word. The small folded tortillas, stuffed with anything from fish to cheese, may date back to pre-Columbian foodways, but along the way they’ve picked up influences from 18th-century European miners and Lebanese immigrants fleeing the fall of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th century. There’s debate over everything from the kind of tortilla that should be used to the allowable fillings, and the arguments have only grown more interesting as the mighty taco has become an entrenched part of global cuisine.

In Seoul, tacos have more than arrived — they’ve become a fingerpost of the city’s international food scene. At some places, they’re localized concoctions barely beholden to the idea of Tex-Mex. At others, authenticity reigns supreme.

Palma, located in the trendy Seochon area, plays with Korean ingredients and draws influence from around the world in a deliberate way. There are no hasty attempts at slapping some kimchi and meat in a tortilla and calling it a day — instead, each and every part of the menu balances flavors and textures from sources both local and deeply traditional.

The small restaurant sits on a side street and has two tables for small groups, but the best seats are at the bar overlooking the small open kitchen, where the chefs work side by side pressing tortillas, grilling ingredients and plating the day’s specials.

The tortillas here merit special attention. Not only are they pressed and grilled to order, coming in different flavors to match the fillings, but the entire process is done in-house. They source heritage varieties of domestic corn, nixtamalize it themselves and make their own masa entirely from scratch. The result is a soft tortilla with a tender bite that’s still able to support its delicious burden. The corn shines through, an edible vehicle that holds up to its important task.

The tacos change with the seasons. Some of the menu harkens to traditional Mexican fillings, bursting with tripe, cabeza (meat from the head of a cow), barbacoa (shredded, spiced meat) or carne asada (grilled meat). There’s plenty of inspiration from Korean cuisine, like a dakgalbi taco featuring spicy chicken with wild perilla oil or a tteokgalbi meat patty wrapped around an entire green pepper. Yet other menu items seem to come from the ether, like a meltingly soft sous vide chicken dressed with prosciutto ham and edible flowers.

Aguachile with local Korean seafood at Palma / Korea Times photo by Jennifer Flinn

The rest of the menu is also in tune with the seasons and ingredients. A refreshing aquachile with Korean abalone, squid and shrimp lightens the summer months, before cold weather brings with it a hearty plate of oxtails and gnocchi or chicken in mole sauce. Giant oyster mushrooms are grilled like steaks, and cheese churros slide into luxurious avocado dipping sauces at the whim of the chefs. On a recent visit, mezcal-marinated prawns were charred on the grill with shishito peppers, while the first figs of the season added a sweet note to a quesadilla.

Palma has an extensive wine menu for a small restaurant, some sold by the glass. They also offer a solid selection of mezcal and tequila, and some surprises like sherry. The one-drink minimum can also be fulfilled through the small selection of beer or cocktails that make good use of traditional Korean and Mexican alcohols. At the end of the meal, there’s one final treat with the check — a house-made seasonal fruit popsicle.

Palma is open Wednesday to Sunday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Follow @palma_seochon on Instagram for more information.