RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK Isaan Isan offers authentic Thai flavors in Suwon

SUWON, Gyeonggi Province — Isaan Isan, the delightful product of a Thai-Korean couple, is a hidden gem in Suwon. The story behind this charming restaurant is as heartwarming as its food. A Korean man, frequently visiting Thailand for business, falls in love with and courts a local Thai woman. Now married, they relocate to his hometown of Suwon, where he proudly shares his wife's culinary talents with the public.

Upon entering Isaan Isan, one first notices its rustic and inviting interior and hears a delightful mix of Korean and Thai voices. The walls are adorned with symbols of Thailand, including a picture of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, while the latest hits from the Thai music charts play softly in the background, adding to the distinctively Thai atmosphere. Despite the challenges of sourcing authentic ingredients, the food remains impressively genuine. Partnering with local farmers to grow the necessary vegetables has ensured that the true taste of Thai cuisine is brought to your table in Korea.

Thailand is recognized for its delicious food, but many Thai people argue that the local variations from the northeastern region of Isan are best. Unfortunately, it is rare to find a Thai restaurant that focuses entirely on Isan cuisine, known for its pungent and well-balanced dishes. The restaurant, located in the Nammun area, is just a few steps down a short alley from Paldal Gate. Its menu comprises classic Thai dishes, including kao pat mo (fried rice with pork), kao pat talae (fried rice with seafood) and pat kapow (minced pork with Thai basil over rice) with prices ranging from 12,000 won to 14,000 won.

During my visit, our group ordered a variety of dishes: chicken fried rice, pat kapow, fried chicken wings, crispy and minced pork over noodles and morning glory (pad pak boong fai daeng). The highlights of the meal were the pat kapow, fried chicken wings and morning glory. The pat kapow — a dish many Thai people use to judge the quality of a restaurant — had the same flavor reminiscent of my travels throughout the northeastern region. The chicken wings were hot and fresh, with a distinct Thai flavor and satisfying crunch, and they were served with a flavorful, spicy soy garlic sauce that elevated the dish. Morning glory, or water spinach, a staple vegetable in Thai cuisine, was stir-fried and deliciously infused with garlic, chilies and oyster sauce.

Similar to the Land of Smiles, at Isaan Isan, you will be greeted with a smile, feeling as if you were suddenly transported to a local restaurant in Thailand's northeastern area. It is an oasis for Thai people and a window into the food that represents this unique region. Since traveling there is not always possible, dining at Isaan Isan is the next best thing, providing you with the taste and hospitality the country and its people are well known for.

Isaan Isan welcomes guests from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Eddie Tam is an assistant professor in Suwon and runs the Facebook foodie groups Hidden Gems Korea and Hidden Gems Suwon, Korea.