Anthropologist analyzes Korea's advertising industry

The cover of Olga Fedorenko's book, "Flower of Capitalism: South Korean Advertising at a Crossroads" / Courtesy of University of Hawai'i Press

Olga Fedorenko, the only foreign female faculty member in the anthropology department of Seoul National University, holds a bachelor's degree in Korean Studies, an MBA from Yonsei University and an MA and a Ph.D. in East Asian Studies from the University of Toronto. Her striking academic career also includes 15 articles, one book, multiple grants, numerous invited talks and conference presentations — yet the humble professor describes her trajectory as “a chain of coincidences.”

Her path may appear linear but her career took a turn when she stepped away from academia to work in marketing.

After two years in an industry that didn't satisfy her intellectual or ethical sensibilities, and “charmed by the intellectual atmosphere” of the University of Toronto where she was completing her master's degree, she enrolled in the university's Ph.D. program in East Asian studies. This decision, far from being part of a calculated plan, was driven by a desire to deepen and expand her thinking.

Continuing the thread of serendipity, her choice opened the door to what would become the defining phase of her scholarly journey, marked by sustained theoretical engagement and critical self-examination.

Her relationship with anthropology began during her MA studies — again, by chance. What she initially chose as a filler class turned out to be transformative. Drawn to the discipline, she began seeking out more anthropology courses, eventually shaping her doctoral coursework to be evenly split between anthropology and East Asian studies.

Today, Fedorenko is recognized as an expert on Korean advertising and media, the Korean wave (hallyu), and the sharing economy and other urban cultural practices. Her name appears frequently at conferences, symposia and in publications focused on South Korea.

She hesitates to label herself a Koreanist. “I am a bit of a chameleon,” she said — an anthropologist in Korean studies circles, and a Koreanist in anthropology circles.

Olga Fedorenko / Courtesy of Olga Fedorenko

In her book, "Flower of Capitalism: South Korean Advertising at a Crossroads," she challenges conventional assumptions about advertising as a tool for selling commodities.

“It is easy to assume that advertising is more or less the same everywhere, with some caveats for cultural sensibilities,” she said. “But in South Korea, marketing goals are often subordinated to grander ideas of advertising as another mass medium that could — and should — bring positive messages into the world.”

Fedorenko discovered that many South Korean ad campaigns, especially corporate image advertising, often do not promote industries or specific products. Instead, they focus on sentimental, feel-good campaigns that, rather than being viewed with suspicion as manipulative or superficial, are awarded and celebrated.

“It was surprising,” she noted, “that these campaigns inspire young people to pursue advertising careers.”

While the ideals of this vision may not always match reality, she argues that it offers a contrast with advertising in other capitalist countries, where commercial goals dominate.

Looking ahead, her next book project explores what she calls the postdigital condition in South Korea — a media ecology where digital technologies have matured beyond their “new” status, while tangible, material media are gaining renewed importance. “South Korea is among the most hyper-digitalized societies in the world,” she explained, “yet it also sustains a vibrant material media culture — from student protest posters (taejabo) to urban banners and political flags.”

As Korean popular culture continues to captivate global audiences — not only through media, but increasingly in academic research — Fedorenko believes this trend will remain important for several more years.

Still, she reminds us that long before the rise of hallyu, South Korea had already drawn scholarly attention for issues like rapid modernization, democratization and Cold War rivalries. Now, it's again a frontier in global challenges, including low birthrates, aging populations and democratic culture amid digital populism.

While she acknowledges that global interest in Korean popular culture has opened new opportunities for anthropology, she cautions that representations of Korea through the lens of K-culture often diverge from lived realities. Anthropological perspectives, which rarely reach broader audiences, tend to be more circumspect — but that, she argues, makes them indispensable. “K-culture may serve as a point of entry,” she said, “but the task is to understand how these cultural forms are embedded within, and shaped by, broader social and historical transformations.”

Fedorenko will be giving a lecture based on her book "Flower of Capitalism: South Korean Advertising at a Crossroads" for Royal Asiatic Society Korea starting at 7:20 p.m. Tuesday. The lecture will be in the basement of the Seoul Public Activities Center near Exit 8 of Samgakji Station on Seoul Metro lines 4 and 6. Entry costs 10,000 won, or 5,000 won for students of all ages with valid student ID, and is free for RAS Korea members. Visit raskb.com for more information.

Daniela P. Solano is a cultural researcher based in Seoul, focusing on the music subcultures of Korea. Her work examines the evolving identity of hallyu and challenges mainstream representations of South Korean culture. She contributes to Mixmag Asia and Mixmag Korea, and she also works in marketing at Nyapi.